Here is Corti Brothers Holiday newsletter. There are a lot more things than what are given here for your delectation at Corti Brothers. But these should give you a start on your Holiday list.
All of the Corti Brothers Family wish you all a happy and joyous season and a splendid New Year, 2025.
Darrell Corti
THE RETURN OF CORTI BROTHERS RIME WINES, WHITE AND RED
The word RIME, (ree-meh) means “rhymes” in Italian and refers to the poetry of the early Italian Renaissance poet Francesco Petrarca, or Petrarch in English (1304-1374). The wines are made and bottled for Corti Brothers by a friend whose winery that makes the wines is in the village of Arquà Petrarca, where the poet died and is buried. To commemorate his death, his last name was added to the village’s
These two wines were born of necessity in 2019 and have become fixtures at Corti Brothers. The Rime Rosso, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenère. Rime Bianco is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Incrocio Manzoni, Sauvignon Blanc, and a dollop of Orange Muscat. Both are dry table wines at 13.5% alcohol and both can be served to good advantage at cellar temperature during the summer and slightly warmer in winter.
Although blends of varieties, they come from the same vineyards and barrels as the estate’s wines, yet they are a lovely balance between varieties, making delicious, crisp wines with moderate alcohol that should satisfy any palate. As they are, RIME White and Red, are very good value and could be called Corti Brothers’ House Wines. At times they can be out of stock, due mainly to shipping factors. However, they are back now and you should get them while the getting is good!
Both RIME wines will age in bottle for a reasonable period. They are fragrant, very drinkable, and balanced--as well made wines are wont to be. They are from the vintages of 2018 for the red and 2022 for the white–and have been in bottle for a year. Both are $12.99 per bottle or a case can be had in any assortment of bottles for $140.00. If you want to drink well, without thinking too much about the wine, RIME are meant for you.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
LOST SLOUGH VERDELHO CANTEIRO 2015
This was an experiment. It was the first time to make a Madeira-like wine from a Madeiran variety, Verdelho, in California. It was made similar to the way early 19th century wines were made--in the Canteiro fashion where the wine was not subjected to very hot temperatures, but left in wood in a cellar both hot and cold. Canteiro means just that: the wines are left on “scantlings.” Verdelho Canteiro is probably a lot like what our Founding Fathers drank as Madeira. It is a soft wine, with some acidity and fragrance and without the high alcohol of most modern Madeiras. It could be used as a table wine, especially with certain dishes. Soy sauce flavored food would go very well with this wine, curiously as would oysters, a suggestion from Hugh Johnson, the noted British wine writer.
Lost Slough is the name of a slough in the California Delta area around Lodi and Stockton, California. This is where these verdelho grapes were grown by the Dancing Coyote Winery. If you are a fan of Madeira, dessert wines or of California experiments, you should try Lost Slough Verdelho Canteiro 2015. You may never see another.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
HARBOR WINERY CALIFORNIA WHITE WINE, Criadera and Solera. A UNIQUE STYLE.
Here is a real wine anomaly. It was created by Charles Myers of Harbor Winery in West Sacramento for his own consumption. It was never meant to be sold, yet upon Charles’ death had to be sold because there were 17 barrels of it. The taxes were paid and the wine bottled. There were several barrels that were marked solera and those have been bottled as such. The other barrels were bottled as Criadera, or younger wine. Both wines started with a base from 1962 as a Palomino grape based wine with flor yeast to make them like sherry. (Although, probably more like a Jura wine than sherry.) In any event, the wine which originally had about 15% alcohol, has risen to 22% through barrel aging and concentration. These are unique wines, never to be seen again once gone. They are true collectors wines for drinking with rich soups or used in deglazing a pan where only a tablespoon or so will create a splendid sauce.
They are not for everyone. Only lovers of very old VORS sherries aught to try them. We do not have much left, and when gone, gone forever.
HARBOR WINERY CALIFORNIA WHITE WINE Solera $38.99 (#7103) Criadera $38.99 (#7104)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
The last cases of ANDIS 2022 Amador County Zinfandel MADE FOR Corti Brothers. Wayne Thiebaud label.
This wine is a repeat of a 50th anniversary wine Corti Brothers had made in 2015. It commemorated the 50th anniversary of the 1965 Zinfandel, made as a homemade wine by Charles Myers of Sacramento, instructor in English at Sacramento City College, from Amador grapes which he and I showed to Bob Trinchero of Napa Valley’s Sutter Home winery and which convinced Bob to buy Amador County grapes in 1968. The wine making was very much the same as Charles had used in his home wine making. (I have his wine making notes.)
The 2015 wine was a great hit with our customers. The label is a painting of Charles reading a book, part of his former colleague Wayne Thiebaud’s oeuvre.
In 2022, I thought about having the wine remade at Andis winery in Plymouth, CA., in the heart of Amador County. In 2022 we were extremely lucky, since the grapes, from an old head pruned vineyard, were harvested just the day before a heat spike of some three days duration. The result of this is that the wine has a natural 12.5% alcohol, something rare in Amador County, but extremely enticing. It shows that lower alcohol Zinfandel can be made there, and made successfully.
This is not a wine for extremely long aging. In fact it is getting to that point where it is entering its delicious drinking window. It will keep 5-8 years more, but if you want to enjoy a splendid Zinfandel that harkens back to wines of the 1940s and 50s, this is your chance. To my mind, this is what excellent Zinfandel should be like. It can be used almost as a white wine if served slightly chilled or as a delicious light red, when you are looking for that style of wine. Not every bottle in your cellar has to be “great.” Some just should be delicious!
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
ANDIS ARINTO 2021: The first bottling of a unique Portuguese varietal.
ARINTO is a white Portuguese varietal normally grown around the Lisbon airport and probably set to become extinct with the airport’s expansion. It is the variety which there produces the white wine called BUCELAS. ARINTO is grown throughout Portugal, but Bucelas is its home. After the Napoleonic Wars in Portugal, the British soldiers stationed there brought the wine back to England as “Portuguese Hock” due to the extremely good acidity the wine had. In California this variety has what we need: high acidity. Andis Vineyards in Amador County has the only planting there, but the variety is most times used as a blending component with Sauvignon Blanc due to the small quantity normally produced. In 2021 vintage they got lucky and made enough to bottle separately. We have taken the remaining production. ARINTO has a white flower scent, like most fruit trees do; a nice, refreshing acidity; and the ability to develop. It has a major defect: It buds out early, making it susceptible to late spring frosts which cause the low production so far in Amador County. But it is a variety very much worth looking at in California, especially in warm areas. With climate change, it is this kind of variety that will make splendid wines now and in the future. Here is your chance to taste the first vintage.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
LAWER VERJUS FROM SYRAH FROM KNIGHTS VALLEY
Have you ever heard of verjus? Its alternative spelling is “vertjus,” meaning the juice from “green” or unripe grapes. It is a tart condiment--an archaic substitute for souring or tarting a dish as with lemon juice when there were no lemons. Curiously, lemons arrived in Europe in the 8th century when the Arabs ruled Sicily. The Romans had no lemons. They had only citrons, which do not give a lot of juice, but were used for their thick, scented rind. But verjus was widely known and used. Both European and Arab recipe books of the late Middle Ages, make frequent mention of verjus, since it was easy to produce from unripe grapes and lent a good bit of sharpness to recipes, especially long cooked dishes where you need some sharpening of flavor but not a lot of acidity. Since Lawer Verjus was just produced in the 2024 vintage, I thought our customers might like to try it. Verjus is an ingredient that time has forgotten.
Made by Cary Gott, a noted Napa Valley winemaker with more than 50 years making wine in California, this is his first effort at making verjus.
Lawer Verjus has a very pale pinkish tinge. A very fresh, lovely scent of flowers and some grape-y scent that is very pleasant. The flavor is a sharp flavor, somewhat akin to a very tart apple taste. It has a definite sharpness and then a round finish that does not leave a puckery taste in the mouth, but a rather round pleasantness. There is very little citric acid in grapes, but a lot of malic acid which is balanced by some sugar natural to the unripe grapes. It is delicious mixed with sparkling water to make a pleasant, nonalcoholic drink.
Verjus is a culinary relic. Do not expect the same results when using as with lemon. But is it a taste that brings back flavors that were in fashion once and now have been out of fashion for nearly seven centuries. This may be its revival!
PANETTONE is the Italian Christmas bread recognized all over the world as the symbol of this holiday. There is so much done about panettone, that there is a movement to have it all year round. This might be a mistake, since it has a long cultural basis, where panettone means Christmas. This year as for the past several years, Corti Brothers has three different producers whose panettone we think is superb and have become our go to brands. Once again we have the production from Dario Loison, including some new flavors (those in BOLD) and the Vermouth di Torino flavored one from COCCHI, whose vermouth di Torino is the flavoring. The last is the oldest producer we have offered, BARDI, who we have had for almost thirty years. There are also the VENEZIANA and then the FILONE from LOISON, to round out the choices. LOISON, with the new flavors in BOLD
CASTELLO DI VERGNANO ACETO BALSAMICO TRADIZIONALE & PASSIONE
For a singular gift for “foodie” friends, there is nothing better than Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, the “real thing” made from boiled down grape must and long aging in various different woods. Corti Brothers has sold the Tradizionale from the Violi family since 1982. The name Castello di Vergnano is now the estate name rather than the previous name which was San Geminiano. We have two bottlings of the same products.
One bottling is in the Consortium bottles, the other is in the bottles bottled by the estate and not allowed to be called with the same name. It is called PASSIONE. The products inside are literally the same. Only the bottling is different.
CASTELLO DI VERGNANO, Consorzio bottling AB TRADIZIONALE: 100 ml
MONASTERY GINGER SNAPS AND PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES: Simple pleasures
Here are two choices for a simple pleasure: cookies and milk. When you just think you need something quiet and simple flavored after all holiday commotions, these two cookies--made in a Benedictine monastery in Ferdinand, Indiana, by the nuns who live there--a tasty peanut butter one and a lively tasting ginger snap one, could not be better suited to my mind for their simple, direct tastes with a cold glass of good milk. In our busy world, sometimes a quiet down experience is better than the constant hullabaloo. I think most Americans feel the same way. Quiet down and enjoy cookies and milk. You can even dunk them in the milk.
These two cookies are, of all the ones made, to my mind, some of the best on the market.
TWO PORTS FOR WINTER DRINKING: Cockburn Vintage 2015 and Delaforce (LBV) Late Bottled 2017
It seems that Port, in particular Vintage Port, gets drunk mostly in the winter. It is a shame since it goes very well after dinner, most of the time! Vintage Port does not have to be strikingly old to be enjoyed, but can be enjoyed just for its fragrant, fruity taste and sweetness to go with some cheeses or savouries. It has one drawback: it doesn’t like being left open for any amount of time other than a few days. To the rescue comes Late Bottled Vintage Port, which, on the other hand doesn’t mind being left open for a longer time. It is just slightly different from the classic two years in wood, then long bottle aging typical of Vintage. On the other hand LBV Port is a fine dessert wine, whereas vintage port is not. A chocolate dessert with LBV is lovely, it fights with Vintage. Cheese or a savoury needs Vintage. I know it’s tough to be dogmatic with wine and food, but some combinations really just do work out better dogmatically.
These two wines are delicious and attractively priced. They have an added bonus, if you don’t drink them this year, they will have improved for next year and for a lot more. So you could buy several bottles of each and if not drunk this year, you will have providently started a port cellar which you will not regret having in the years to come.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
TUTTO CALABRIA AUTHENTIC CALABRIAN CHILI SAUCE
This is a chili sauce similar in presentation as Siracha. It is made in Calabria, the toe of Italy’s boot, since 1970. The history of chiles in Calabria is very special. In fact, the history of peppers in Italy is very regional--Calabria being the Italian Region which is known for its use of chile peppers. In fact, if a dish is called “Calabrian” it generally means hot peppers are included. Its very simple, vegetable based cuisine is enhanced by the use of chiles. And to think that at one time, the most sophisticated city in the world was in Calabria: Sybaris, which gave us the word “sybarite.”
Hot chiles were brought back to Europe, to Spain, in 1493 by Columbus. They were being talked about by 1494. By the 17th century, Niccolò Fontegueri started calling them “peperone.” Peperoncino was first used to name them by the end of the 19th century. The first recipes using them were written by Vincenzo Corrado, a Neapolitan chef, since Naples was at the time, the seat of cooking in Italy. In the meantime, dishes using chile peppers were called “piatti infuocati” fire-y dishes. It is curious that the famous spaghetti dish of garlic, oil and chile peppers was invented in 1983. Before this it was made only with garlic (aio) and olive oil (oio). In Italy, sausages called “Calabresi” always contain chiles.
There are nine varieties grown in Calabria used in any Calabrian preparation. Tutto Calabria’s Chili Sauce is made with Calabrian chiles, water, vinegar, olive oil, salt and garlic–in this order. We sell a lot of it. With the current fashion for hot sauces, you should try this essentially Calabrian product.
Virginia peanuts have a special place in American foodstuffs. Peanut cultivation was begun in the State in the early 19th century. By the mid 1800s Virginia peanuts were known as the best of the best. By the turn of the 20th century, Virginia was the nation’s top producer. In 1929, The Virginia Diner, was established in Wakefield, Virginia, and its peanuts became famous. Now you can try them with the Eastern seaboard’s famed seafood seasoning–Old Bay. The crisp, roasted peanuts are flavored with Old Bay Seasoning, which is emblematic of this part of the U.S. And for good reason.
The Virginia Diner Old Bay Seasoned Peanuts are not usually available to us on the West Coast. But now you can try them since Corti Brothers has a stock. They are delicious by themselves and enhance your favorite cocktail. They are also very difficult to stop eating!
TEAS FROM THE MOST FAMOUS TEA SHOP IN HONG KONG: Lock Cha Tea.
Since 1992, Corti Brothers has sold the teas from both China and Taiwan selected by Wing-chi Ip, proprietor of the most famous tea shop in Hong Kong when I made my first trip to China to see tea production. We have been out of Lock Cha teas for a while for various reasons, but they are now back in stock.
Here are the Hong Kong packed boxes containing the sealed bags of whole leaf, unique teas.
These last two teas are made with young tangerines from Xinhui in Guangdong. Remove paper wrapping, cut into a quarter of piece. Rinse with very hot water, Refill to brew. The tea is from Yunnan.
BOOKS
FUTURIST MIXOLOGY is the name of this fascinating, bilingual work (English/Italian) produced by Roberto Bava of the house of COCCHI in Asti, Italy, which makes products that are much in line with the notions of this work. What is Futurism? Many would not know that it was a social system set up between the years 1925 and 1935 in Italy where poets, writers, and artists worked on notions that wanted to bring something new to the world after the shock of World War I. There was also some sense in it of what in the U.S. would be called “Modernism.” This work is for barmen, written by a barman–(I really do prefer this term to that of “bartender”!) His name is Fulvio Piccinino. There are elucidated 18 Futurist cocktails, called “polibibite” meaning a “drink made of many things,” the exact notion of a cocktail. There is a general history of the Futurist movement in art, food, and drink. It is enlightening--and for barmen--a real opportunity to look at what was being created and thought about during this period between two wars.
Italy is not much considered in the cocktail world, but just look at the idea of a “Negroni.” In Futurist Mixology, you have ideas about other similar drinks which should cause even more ideas, and so on. For barmen and the adventuresome drinker, this is a book to keep in the bar and also next to your bed. It is a terrific read.
VERMOUTH DI TORINO by Fulvio Piccinino is a very good English translation of the Italian original which sets out everything that there is to know about Vermouth, especially the one made in Piemonte called “di Torino.” Originally published in 2015, this second edition of June, 2024, is a last word on vermouth, now very much on drinkers’ minds and palates. Its subtitle: “The history and production of the world’s most famous aromatised wine,” sets the stage for a charming and illustrative read. Its “time line” is impressive.
Vermouth and its entry into the cocktail world is well described. As are the “polibibite” of the Futurists. The author is author of the Mixology work above. Everything notable and some things not so notable about Vermouth are described in this one of a kind work. The collection of graphic art alone from generations of Italian artists used as publicity material for Vermouth is worth the price of this work. All of the producers of the consortium of Vermouth di Torino are described with their histories. It is a fundamental work on a delicious product, now returning to the fore.
This is a book that should be in everyone’s library.
THE SIGNATURE WINES OF SUPERIOR CALIFORNIA: A new California wine book by Mike Dunne
First off, I wrote the Introduction to this work, self published by Sacramento’s former Sacramento Bee Wine and Food editor, D. Michael Dunne. We have been friends for a long time. Mike Dunne has, without a doubt, the best exposure to the vineyards and wines of the area surrounding Sacramento than anyone I know. He has lived the experience and has written about the area for almost fifty years.
The half title of the work is “50 wines that define the Sierra Foothills, the Delta, Yolo, and Lodi.” And it does just that. It is a particularly nice blend of tasting information and actual history, both of a specific winery and the region it is in. Mike has lived most of the places, people and wines he writes about, making this a real treasure of information for the novice, and also for the well read and traveled wine knowledgeable drinker, who doubtless will find nuggets of information that were probably unknown. I know I did! It is a very lovely production in paperback, with an immensely readable text, which merits your attention. So far, nothing similar is on the market.
TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. All California State required bottles and cans will incur the California Redemption Value (CRV) charge for recycling, per bottle, at 05¢ for under 24 oz and 10¢ for 24 oz and over. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection. Please order early for best selection. Transit times increase during the holiday season.
Just as panettone means Christmas for Italians, the COLOMBA means Easter. This is a baked cake, in a rather odd shape–that of a flying dove. It is made with a mother sponge, raised dough to which butter, eggs, and candied citrus fruit is added, and the top decorated with either whole Sicilian almonds or a hazelnut cream made with Piemonte hazelnuts. Beside being the festive cake for Easter, it has myriad uses after as a base for fresh fruit desserts, where the Colomba acts as the base for almost every kind of sliced and sugared fruit teamed with whipped cream or whipped cream blended with Mascarpone cheese, a bit of sugar and some vanilla. Or, used as a base for “bread” pudding, sublime!
This year we have COLOMBA from Dario LOISON, and a very special one made with the fragrant red variety from Piemonte, BRACHETTO d’ACQUI from COCCHI.
COLOMBA AL BRACHETTO d’ACQUI COCCHI
Just as we offered the COCCHI PANETTONE with VERMOUTH at Christmas, for Easter we are offering a Colomba made with the red, very fragrant Piemontese variety, BRACHETTO, and the COCCHI wine to go with this Colomba. It is baked by Albertengo in Cuneo, and the wine is made by Cocchi. The fruit used in the cake is macerated in the wine and then both added to the dough.
For those of you who have never tried Brachetto, here is your opportunity to taste a wine made from the most expensive grapes in Piemonte.
BRACHETTO d’ACQUI is an “amabile” red wine made from grapes of the same variety. This is a very old variety in Piemonte, almost lost because it fell out of style. It is grown only a limited area in Piemonte in the area of ACQUI TERME and most always made as a frothy light red wine with the most fragrant of rose-like scents and light sweetness. Brachetto now is one of, if not the most expensive grape variety grown in Italy. The fresh fruit sells for more money than nebbiolo grapes for making Barolo. The grapes are bought by the kilo.
Brachetto is a variety that was very much sought after during the 18th and early 19th centuries, and with the rise of other varieties, and changing wine styles, it was relegated to a minor role in the area of the Monferrato and Alessandria. Acqui Terme is a very old “spa” town with famous water and its Brachetto. Brachetto is now back in vogue and rightly so. Normally, vinified like a moscato, it needs to be left fragrantly sweet and with a gentle mousse in the mouth. Its distinct rose-like scent makes it a splendid accompaniment to dessert or as a morning or afternoon bottle of wine that is surprisingly delicious and “more-ish.” It sings “Springtime” full force!
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
We have again added this year that specialty from Loison bakery that was created in 1930s by Dario Loison’s grandfather: it is a type of FILONE, an elongated, baguette shaped loaf with candied fruit and raisins that is similar to, but not the same dough, as panettone. It is a tender, leavened cake with candied fruit and raisins glazed with a hazelnut glaze. It can be sliced and enjoyed or sliced and toasted. Either way, it is delicious and shows what deliciousness can come from thinking outside of the box. Three versions, boxed, 500g
Lingham’s chilli sauce was born in Penang, Malaysia in 1908. From that time it has changed hands only three times, the last time in 2011 into the hands of the Yeoh family. It is found pretty much around the world. Depending on the flavor, it is made with only four ingredients--cane sugar, red chillies, salt, and vinegar--and no preservatives or stabilizers of any sort. More than one hundred years old, the ingredients for Lingham’s recipe have not changed--making it one of the original “natural” food condiments.
I happen to like Lingham’s very much. Unfortunately, it has been a bit difficult to find these last few years. But Corti Brothers now has a good supply, and I am pleased to offer it again to our customers. There are many, perhaps too many, chilli sauces on the market, but none compare with Lingham’s. It’s unusually good and its balanced hot and sweet flavor combines very well with the two added ingredients of ginger and garlic that flavor two of the Lingham sauces.
The Original Chilli Sauce, called Hot Sauce for our market’s label, is delicious with its mouth filling warmth and balanced sweetness which allows food flavors to play with spiciness. There are four types which Corti Brothers offers of Lingham’s: Original Chilli Hot Sauce; the Extra Hot, (which is really not that hot); and then the Garlic and the Ginger versions with their dominant flavor from fresh garlic and ginger. There is one thing one must do with Lingham’s: You must shake it from side to side to mix it before using. I store mine, once opened, in the refrigerator for best quality. If you have not tried Lingham’s before, I suggest you try it now. You’ll probably not be without it again. I cannot imagine corned beef hash without it!
On my last trip to Japan to attend FoodEx in Tokyo, I found a really superb producer of vinegar made in Gifu Prefecture in the mountains in the middle of Japan. This producer is UCHIBORI, who has been making vinegars since 1877. One normally doesn’t think much about vinegar, it is just there. Such was the state of things until the arrival of Traditional Aceto Balsamico, which radically changed consumers’ view of vinegar. I hope that UCHIBORI will do the same for somewhat more traditional vinegars.
In order to make fine vinegar, which is not a by-product or lesser product, but a product which needs a finely made base in order to make fine vinegar. Uchibori does just that. While producing vinegars from rice mainly, Uchibori make the substrate which they convert to vinegar. In most vinegar production, a substrate is purchased from various and different producers and converted to vinegar. Uchibori makes its sake substrate and then converts this same sake to vinegar. The case in point is its DAIGINJO VINEGAR. At Daiginjo level, rice is milled to 50% or less of its original size. It then is produced mainly in the winter during cold weather.
A sake lover knows the word DAIGINJO in sake as meaning the highest quality level of sake produced. Uchibori makes its own daiginjo sake just to convert it to vinegar. All Japanese vinegar is made from some part of koji fermented rice, produced as sake and then converted to vinegar. Uchibori DAIGINJO vinegar is the only one of its type that I know of, where the highest quality sake is produced just to make vinegar.
Tasting it at the Uchibori stand at FoodEx in Tokyo, I was amazed at its clean, fragrant and then tasty character, putting it very much out of the normal realm of Japanese white vinegar. It was an astonishing flavor and delicious. Mellow, soft, with rich rice sweetness, but not “sweet” tasting, Daiginjo vinegar is splendid white vinegar for use with wine. Normally wine and vinegar are not served in tandem
Another tasting led me to the Uchibori Black vinegar, RINGOYAMA KUROSU. (It really is not “black”, more like a very dark chocolate brown color), with again, an astonishingly delicious flavor profile. Do not let the name bother you. The vinegar takes its name from Mt. Rinko in Gifu prefecture. It is not particularly thick, but very flavorful, with a terrific umami background flavor that is both mellow and balanced. Production of this vinegar uses twice as much brown rice than required by the official definition of Black Vinegar. Currently, I am really enjoying as an aperitif a small amount of this vinegar in a glass, topped up with San Pellegrino water. (The recipe: one part vinegar and four parts water.) Simply astonishingly good! I have also started using Uchibori Black vinegar in braises and sautées to point up flavors. It works wonderfully and recently has been promoted by several starred French chefs specifically to point up flavor in dishes. There is nothing similar in Western cooking.
Both the Uchibori Daiginjo and Uchibori Black Vinegar merit your attention. They probably will change your mind about vinegar. For what they are, they are perfect. Spring and summer are coming. Salads need vinegar!
TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. All California State required bottles and cans will incur the California Redemption Value (CRV) charge for recycling per bottle at 05¢ for under 24 oz and 10¢ for 24 oz and over. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection. Please order early for best selection.
CARIBBEAN RUM: FOURSQUARE DISTILLERY, Barbados
PROBITAS, pronounced with the accent on the pro, means “honest/trustworthy.” It is also the name of a White Blended rum from Foursquare Distillery on the island of Barbados in the Caribbean. But it is a blended rum, coming from two distilleries and two different locations. One is Barbados; the other Jamaica. The Barbadian fraction is produced on Barbados in a traditional Coffey column still and the other fraction, on a double retort pot still, from the Hampden distillery on Jamaica. The blend is delicious and not your usual “white” rum.
For one thing, it is just slightly yellow in color from aging. But it has the elements of what I think white rum should have: a clean, fragrant aroma, clean fresh taste and flavor, not dark rum flavor, but a light flavor with a pleasant softness. Since we are headed into warmer weather, this is a rum to keep in mind for making mixed drinks with real character and appeal. It would make a delicious “P’tit Punch” aperitif with a shot of rum mixed with the juice of half a lime. Quite satisfying with a cube of ice or just as is. Put into a glass of fresh orange juice, it improves the orange juice.
As a riff on the “Gold Cup” from the Disney World Yacht Club, use the Probitas White rum.
1.25 oz. Probitas White Rum .75 oz Orange Curacao 1 oz each: Sour Mix, orange juice and pineapple juice ½ oz grenadine Build in a shaker over ice. Shake and serve.
FOURSQUARE 2010 is a 12 year old exceptional cask selection rum aged in ex bourbon barrels. It is a blended rum, but all from Barbados, merely two different still productions. One is a pot still, the other a column still. The rum was distilled and matured at Foursquare Rum Distillery on Barbados. It is a high proof, 60 % alcohol, with no sweetener, other flavor or added color. Just how it came from cask. Normally, I am not fond of this level of alcohol, but in this case it is appropriate and really delicious and savory. Not chill filtered, with ice it will cloud slightly, so don’t get alarmed. This is completely natural. It is a lovely drink!
FOURSQUARE PROBITAS WHITE RUM 47% Barbados and Jamaica $34.99+CRV 750ml (#5934)
FOURSQUARE 2010 BARBADOS RUM 60% $100.99 +CRV 750ml (#5935)
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WILD FISH CANNERY SMOKED WILD ALASKAN WHITE KING SALMON
This is a real rarity. White salmon is a natural sport of salmon. It is not exactly “white,” but a very, very pale pinkish white. It happens when the particular fish is not able to assimilate color from the small, pink/red colored plankton which salmon eat. A white salmon looks just like a normal salmon from the outside. It is only, once caught and being processed, do you note the color. Usually these fish are taken by the fishermen for their own delectation. At the Wild Fish Cannery in Alaska, these fish are cut, smoked, and tinned when found. Right now some stock is available and you should try it. Only 5% or so of the wild Alaskan King salmon caught is this “White” King Salmon. It is wild harvested, smoked and hand packed in Alaska in 6 oz tins. Packed in water, there is no extra oil added since the fish is already rather rich. A really lovely twist on pasta with tuna sauce would be to use this wild white King salmon. 6oz tin.
Riga, the capital of the country of Latvia, one of the Baltic States, produces a lovely fish product which historically has been called SPRAT. It comes from a small Atlantic/Baltic Sea fish called Sprattus sprattus. Originally and still, they can be found in a small, flat round tin, but Corti Brothers has been having very good sales with another presentation in a jar. Sprattus sprattus belongs to the herring family, which also includes sardines. Hence, the obvious name mixup. The tins are labeled Sprats; the jars, Sardines.
However, the product is delicious and with interest very much growing for tinned fish, RIGA GOLD SMOKED SARDINES ARE SOMETHING YOU SHOULD TRY. They are made with only two ingredients: refined olive oil and salt. The fish are lightly smoked, then headed and tailed, and packed in olive oil with a touch of salt, hand placed in their glass jar. Refined olive oil is used since it doesn’t harden when cold and actually is just a clean, lightly flavorsome medium to keep the fish soft and to help preserve them. What you want to taste is the fish not the oil.
Riga, Latvia’s capital, was founded in 1158 by German merchants from Bremen as a trading post. The three countries which make up the Baltics are Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia--all located just south of Sweden/Finland, on the Baltic Sea. Since the early 1900s, Riga Sprats have been famous as a traditional fish product in this part of Northern Europe. They are always wild caught and naturally smoked.
Very versatile, these Smoked Sardines can be enjoyed as they are with just some good rye bread, with a simple salad or mixed with pasta. Very healthy with Omega 3 oils, they are an easy way to enjoy a lightly smoked taste, elegant, mild flavor and get nutrition besides. What could be simpler?
A really quick to do snack, canape or “tapa” would be a slice of good rye bread, layered with slices of hard boiled egg and topped with Riga Gold Smoked Sardine. Accompanied by a good beer or some cold vodka.
A NEW ANTINORI EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL FROM TUSCANY:
Tenuta Bartolina
In 1972, Corti Brothers began importing extra virgin olive oil from the Marchesi Antinori property named Santa Cristina in Chianti Classico, now called Tignanello. This was followed by the oil from their Umbrian property, Castello della Sala, in Orvieto Classico. These two oils left us after the freeze in 1985. But now we have oil from a new Antinori property in the Maremma of southern Tuscany.
TENUTA BARTOLINA produces only oil, not wine and oil! It is planted to Tuscan varieties, mainly a unique variety, Leccio del Corno and then to smaller amounts of Maurino, Leccino and Rossellino. The first and last varieties are later maturing ones. The 2023 harvest started with the early varieties, Maurino and Leccino, on 9 October, followed by the later ripening varieties three weeks later. 2023 harvest is limited to 4,600--500ml bottles. Tenuta Bartolina was entered in the 2024 Los Angeles International Olive Oil competition. (Disclosure: I am the Chairman of this competition, but do not taste.) Bartolina won a Gold Medal and Best of Class in Tuscan oil, medium intensity. This is a high polyphenol oil, excellently balanced with bitterness and pungency, with a lovely balanced finish. It is a really excellent oil! It is also brand new to our market.
Dorothy Tchelistcheff was the second wife of Napa Valley’s famed André Tchelistcheff. Afer André’s death in 1994, she and I spoke almost every Sunday morning until her passing on Thanksgiving, 2023. She was looking forward–with some dread–to her 100th birthday in June. Dorothy was André’s one time secretary and after they married, his traveling partner, confidant, secretary, and towards the end of his life, his chauffeur. Dorothy was a consummate housekeeper, excellent cook, splendid needlepointer, and friend.
Until André became to ill to do it, the Tchelistcheffs put on two annual Blini parties before the beginning of Orthodox Lent. At these blini parties, Dorothy used the following recipe to make the blini in several 6 inch frying pans The blini were lovely, and I will give you the recipe since they are what I make at home. In her recipe card box which I now have, she noted every thing that would be used for a party of 20 guests. The party always started with Champagne, which if one wanted, could be continued. But vodka, especially Zubrovka, was the drink of choice. The blini were accompanied by Riga sprats, herring in wine sauce, Matjes herring cut into strips, thinly sliced smoked salmon, smoked boneless shad (if available), sour cream, melted butter, caviar and hard boiled eggs--both whites and yolks sieved separately. Once cooked, the blini can be put into a cloth lined pot with a lid and kept in a just warm oven until ready to serve.
Hot consommé was served when you had eaten your fill of blini, followed by raspberry sorbet and black tea with jam to end. I enjoyed these parties from 1970 until 1994. André used to say that in his youth in Russia, the amount of blini to be enjoyed was measured by putting your elbow on the table and then flattening your hand. That was the measure that Rob Davis, wine maker at Jordan winery and I, never got up to, but close! Here is
Dorothy’s recipe for BLINI. 1 cake or 1 package of yeast 3 cups warm milk 3 cups flour (white flour because André did not like buckwheat flour.) 3 eggs separated ½ cup sweet butter ½ teaspoon each salt and sugar
Start about 9 or 10 a.m. Dissolve yeast in ½ cup warm milk. Add enough flour to form a sponge (about 1/4 cup) Let rise about 3 hours. Cream egg yolks, butter salt and sugar. Add yeast sponge, remaining flour and the rest of warm milk. Beat well. Let stand about 1 hour. Half an hour before cooking, beat egg whites, add to the mixture and let rest ½ hour. Thin as needed with milk.
Using a small brush, grease pan with soft, unsalted butter. The amount of batter to use per each blini is about 1/3 of a cup. (Her recipe remarks to use a slice of carrot attached to a fork to butter the pan) Since blini are actually fried in the butter, use only enough to make a coating in the hot pan. André always said blini should have a pretty design to the cooked faces. And above is what Dorothy showed they should look like. (Note: This batter keeps very well for several days. You can make more of the batter and store in fridge until using. Bring to room temperature before cooking.)
When panettone rolls around, you know it’s Christmas in Italy. This year we have the usual suspects and once again, the delicious Cocchi Panettone al Vermouth di Torino. Then there are also the Veneziana and the Filone, a loaf shaped bread similar to a panettone. In Italy, panettone is seasonal, but there is a movement afoot to make it all year round. In San Francisco, local bakeries do make it all year long, since it is wonderful toasted for breakfast and some people can’t resist eating it all the time. However, for the time being, in Italy, it still remains a traditional, SEASONAL, product. Loison’s Filone, the loaf shaped style, is the only one to be made all year long.
I, for one, am in the seasonal camp. But then, for how long...? Here are the Panettoni, Veneziane, and the like for the Holidays 2023.
In 2015 Corti Brothers had made at Andis winery in Amador County a wine to remember the 50th anniversary of the Amador County Zinfandel made by Charles Myers, a friend in Sacramento who, as a home winemaker, made the 1965 Zinfandel that started Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home Winery in St. Helena on his first vintage of Amador Zinfandel in 1968. Charles is gone, but Bob and I are still here, and the 2015 vintage was a delicious wine. In 2022, I decided to try it again, using Charles’s notes on how he made the 1965 wine. We got lucky. The grapes came from the mature vineyard at the Old Massoni Ranch and were harvested just the day before a heat wave hit Amador county at harvest in 2022. This wine is unusual for the area since it has only 12.5% alcohol naturally. Nothing was added and nothing taken away. As I said, we got lucky. But it only proves that this kind of zinfandel can be made in Amador County, but you have to want to do it. The production was less than the 2015 and is in both bottles and magnums.
This is a very pretty zinfandel. It is not a zinfandel for the ages, but a delicious drinking wine that will be enjoyable for some time and will give a lot of pleasure. Right now, this is the kind of wine I like to drink. It is not a wine to “make old bones with,” and it is probably not what a lot of zinfandel lovers want to see in the grape. But it is delicious and a bottle in two people may not be enough wine. But it is a very valid style, rarely, if ever found in the area and a stroke of luck in getting it made. With wine, as in life, sometimes you win and sometimes you don’t. This is a winner.
The label with Wayne Thiebaud’s painting of Charles Myers reading, called “A man reading” is the same as was used on the 2015 bottling to honor the man who first made the wine.
CORTI BROTHERS AMADOR COUNTY ZINFANDEL 2022, 12.5% $29.99 750ml (#5833) $323.00 cs/12 (#5833C) $59.99 magnum (#5834) $323.00 cs/6 (#5834C)
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WHISKY RISING, 2nd edition, STEFAN VAN EYCKEN, revised and updated
This is a book on Japanese whisky--if not the last word on the subject, close to it. The author, Stefan van Eycken lives in Tokyo and teaches music while devoting his odd hours to whisky from all lands, but Japan is particular. This is the second edition. If size has anything to do with it--the first edition was some 399 pages long–this second edition is 639 pages long! Spending just a bit of time looking over Japanese whisky, the entire class has exploded into a world of products, now made more sensible and eminently more understandable with Stefan’s book. Recent changes in Japanese law have also made Japanese whisky a definite class of product rather than what it used to be, where a lot of Scotland found its way into bottles with Kanji and Katakana on the label. It is as if an entire world has been discovered that before was vaguely known, but now has become a completely different world than what was before. We should all be grateful for the work that Stefan van Eycken has done. Available through good bookstores and Amazon.
LUXARDO 200th ANNIVERSARY MARASCHINO
The Italian company LUXARDO is probably more famous now for its cherries used in cocktail making than for its main product the cherry liqueur called MARASCHINO. Yet the firm has been making it since 1821, first on the Dalmatian coast in what was Yugoslavia and then as now, in the Colli Euganei, just outside of Padova in Italy’s Veneto. Luxardo Maraschino was so famous that it created a whole slew of imitators, including of its packaging. Luxardo is the first firm to win international notoriety for its handling of trademark charges for its Maraschino. With 200 years of history under the same family, Luxardo has entered the ranks of Les Henokiens, the association of family firms with at least 200 years of history, still in the same family.
To celebrate its 200th anniversary, 2021, which could not have come at a worse time--the middle of the Covid period--the Luxardo family has used a very precious distillate, an aged “dry” Maraschino which they used to sell called Perla Dry to confect this 200th Anniversary bottling which is a delight to offer.
A clear liquid, water white, the 200th Anniversary bottling is in a blue leather presentation coffret, bottled in the flagon shaped bottle used for the 19th century Riserva, semiwrapped, as are all the Luxardo Maraschino bottles. The base has been aged for some 50 years partially in large larchwood casks which do not impart any color to the distillate, but make it smooth and harmonious. Maraschino is similar to Kirsch, also a cherry distillate, but with a character all its own, having been distilled from the Luxardo clone of Marasca cherries. It is a sweetened liqueur that is irreplaceable in mixed drinks and of late, not much drunk on its own. But it used to be, hence it fame and fortune.
There were only 4,999 bottles of this bottling for the world. If you want to have a real specialty, here you have it. Maraschino improves in bottle, gaining finesse and delicacy the longer it stays in bottle. I enjoy Maraschino over ice after dinner, It is indispensable with sliced, fresh pineapple for dessert. If you want to make a Martinez cocktail, it is absolutely necessary, but you don’t have to use the 200th Anniversary bottling. Use the regular bottling. The 200th Anniversary bottling should be brought out on splendid occasions and special feasts, just because we won’t see another anniversary bottling in our lifetimes. Enough said.
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ANDIS WINERY SCIOPELOT 2021
This is a very special red wine made at Andis winery from two very different red varieties grown in the Sierra Foothills. One variety is called SCHIOPPETINO, a variety which almost disappeared from Fruili where it is native. It was revived in the 1960s and has gone on to become a darling of Italian wine fans. The other variety is CINSAULT, which cannot decide how it wants its name spelled either with an “l” or without an “l”
The blend is delicious. The majority is Cinsault and can be inferred from the back label. The name is the acoustical equivalent of the name in Friulan dialect for Schioppetino. This variety lends its rather definite, sharp, crisp character to the more soft Cinsault making the blend just a delicious, savory, mouthful that prompts an- other mouthful, until the bottle is finished. I can’t tell you how the wine will develop because the blend has never been made before, but both varieties age well and the synergy between them may well make this a revelation. Right now, I am enjoying it very much for its snappy freshness and harmonious balance. Nothing sticks out and everything seems to be in place. It is a wine to take advantage of and to be seduced.
ANDIS WINERY SCIOPELOT 2021 Sierra Foothills, $22.99 750ml (#5836) $248.00 cs/12 (#5836C)
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TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection.
Please order early for best selection. Shipping times increase during the busy Holiday season.
CALIFORNIA STATE FAIR WINE TASTING, 2023 BEST OF SHOW WHITE WINE--NEW CLAIRVAUX ASSYRTIKO 2022
This is a white wine variety grown and produced at a monastery. The Abbey of Our Lady of New Clairvaux is a Trappist monastery founded in 1955 on part of the Vina vineyard and winery property of Governor Leland Stanford, which,when established, was the largest vineyard and winery in the world. It suffered various visissitudes, and in 1955 some 450 acres of the original property were purchased by the Trappist Abbey of Gethsemani in Kentucky for the establishment of a daughter monastery, New Clairvaux. The Trappists are a branch of the Cistercian order, called of the “Strict Observance,” yet remain part of the Cistercians responsible for the great winemaking properties in Germany, France and Spain. The monks essentially drained swampland to produce some of Europe’s most renown vineyard lands–Think Clos Vougeot and Kloster Eberbach.
In the early 2000s, New Clairvaux decided to plant some grapes since their property was originally a vineyard, now producing walnuts and prunes. They planted vines, and of the varieties planted, two were Greek: Assyrtiko from Santorini and Moschofilero from the Peleponesus. Both have done very well in the area which is very warm and where these varieties do very well. The Assyrtiko in particular. It is here that the first planting of Greek varieties were made in California, and the present result shows why: The California State Fair Wine Tasting awarded the New Clairvaux Assyrtiko the Best of Show in 2023.
Winemaking is overseen by Aimée Sunseri, who also is the winemaker for her family’s winery, Nichelini in Chiles Valley, an off shoot of Napa Valley to the east. At New Clairvaux, the monks grow the grapes and Aimée makes the wine, in a wing of the original winery building, which, when Stanford built it, was two acres under roof. The then world’s largest facility of its kind.
Vina is about 17 miles to the north of Chico, California, and merits a visit both for the wines produced and for its new church which was reconstructed using stone from the Chapter House of a previously torn down Spanish Cistercian monastery once purchased by William Randolph Hearst for his Wintoon ranch. It was never built at Wintoon, but was rebuilt with additional new stones cut and reassembled at Vina.
About two hours north of Sacramento, New Clairvaux merits your attention, both for its wines and its Sacred Stones.
New Clairvaux Assyrtiko is a pale, crisp, fragrant, stoney-like white wine that does well with a few years of bottle age, as does the white wine of Santorini. It is a revelation in what can be grown if you know what to grow. Clean, snappy with natural acidity, and dry, New Clairvaux’s Assyrtiko shows that more than what we thought able to grow well in California can be found in some of the most unlikely places in the world. If you have not tried it, you should. A new world awaits you.
NEW CLAIRVAUX ASSYRTIKO 2022, Tehama County, $23.99 750ml (#5837) $259.00 cs/12 (#5837C)
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COCCHI RISERVA REALE VERMOUTH: The last stock in the world
I was pleasantly surprised on a recent trip to Piemonte to be told that Corti Brothers has the last stock for sale in the world of the magnificent COCCHI RESERVA REALE VERMOUTH DI TORINO. We had purchased a good stock some years ago and have it for sale. The product is now sold out at Cocchi, and the recipe will not be remade. So what we have is 18 cases of the original bottling of 1891 bottles. Not only is it now rare, it is also a collectible since both the name and recipe will not be reproduced.
Cocchi Riserva Reale Riserva was made with some of the herbs necessary for the recipe grown in the gardens of the royal palace, the VENARIA REALE, outside of Torino. The special mint from Pancalieri is used in a good amount which gives this vermouth its “cool and intriguing character.”
Vermouth ages very well in bottle and a real treat is to be able to enjoy bottle aged vermouth, but in order to do this, you must cellar it yourself. Vermouth was and still is the aperitif “par excellence” for Italians. Served cool with a lemon twist, it really is the symbol of Italian hospitality.
I remember very vividly my grandparents going to visit my uncle Gino’s in-laws on Sunday after church. They drank a ceremonious glass of vermouth, and I who couldn’t drink was given the delightful cherry aged in brandy, a single one, served in a shot glass. I only got one and had to make it last!
Vermouth has made a serious comeback. I don’t know from what, since I have always loved vermouth, but it has now taken on a life of its own and it seems that vermouth is to be found everywhere. The idea of the “Vermouth Hour” is really just another way of spending some time enjoying a delicious, complex drink that until just a few years ago had a poor reputation. Yet try and make a good cocktail without a good vermouth. Except for some, it can’t be done. But if you want to experience aged vermouth, you have to age it yourself. Here we have done it for you.
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NOCCIOLINI DI CHIVASSO: The world’s small cookie
On a July, 2023, telephone conversation, Roberto Bava from Piemonte, asked if I knew what the world’s smallest cookie was. I did not know. He replied: “the Nocciolini di Chivasso.” These have made Chivasso, outside of Torino, world famous. So, on my last trip to Italy, I went to see them. They are definitely small and delicious. They are ½ inch in diameter and crunchy like an amaretto cookie made out of bitter almonds. They are also a PDO product, with a Protected Denomination of Origin, made from only three ingredients: Tonda Gentile Piemonte hazelnuts, sugar and eggwhite. Their history is slightly convoluted--we are in Italy after all and their history is said to begin in 1810. But they were made famous at the first of the great International Exhibitions where they were given medals for quality. The recipe now belongs to Chivasso city and there are only four producers. The Bonfante pastry shop is the largest and most famous of them.
They are made from a batter created with the toasting and peeling of the hazelnuts; their grinding with sugar and then the addition of beaten egg white. This batter is then sent through an ingenious machine which extrudes the batter in drops onto a paper baking sheet. Left to then dry slightly, they are baked until crisp and then removed from their paper.
Curiously, before the Fascist period in Italy in the 1920s, the Nocciolini were called either Noisettes, as in French for hazelnut or Noasetti or Nuasèt, the acoustical equivalent of the same in Piemontese dialect. But in that period, all foreign terms had to be Italianized, hence “hotel” became “albergo,” “menu” became “lista.” Bonfante Nocciolini are packed in the traditional pink colored bag which symbolizes Nocciolini. The other producers use the same color. Nocciolini are really small. Two cookies are about the size of a normal hazelnut and should be eaten by the handful. Not particularly sweet tasting due to the hazelnut intensity, they are a dry cookie with a very pleasant hazelnut flavor. If you can imagine eating a cookie as if it were a hazelnut, you understand Nocciolini di Chivasso. Served with a glass of vermouth, in particular a Vermouth Bianco, they would not be out of place. Moscato d’Asti washes them down very well, Caluso Passito is another dessert wine that is traditional with Nocciolini. Topping really good gelato with them is traditional as well as serving with zabaione, the fluffy egg yolk, sugar, and Marsala foam.
I think, once tried, you will come up with even more combinations for these smallest cookies in the world.
During the holidays, when unexpected guests and spur-of-the-moment entertaining happens, there is nothing better than to not fret and have a stock of simple, delicious things to put out for people to munch on while getting a drink or thinking about getting one. I know that I, for one, like the ease that already prepared snacks offer for entertaining. And these three items might just entice you to keep them on hand all year round.
The first are the 50 HERTZ TINGLY SICHUAN PEANUTS. Very large, smooth peanuts are roasted with Sichuan peppercorns that give these large peanuts the “tingly” sensation so typical of Sichuan peppercorns. We buy them very frequently and consequently they are always very fresh and “tingly.” I brought a tin to give as a gift to a very important tea growing family in Uji, Japan. They were opened and during our visit finished! I had nothing to go on as to what to expect, but even with green Uji tea, they were literally devoured. The tingly experience is actually that of 50 Hertz, the frequency length that the Sichuan peppercorn produces. It is a pleasant, “tingly” sensation in the mouth, rather like a very mild electrical shock. But very agreeable. The flavor of the peanuts ain’t bad either.
CORTI BROTHERS TUERCA DE MAIZ, our own packaging of toasted whole corn kernels is simply addicting. It is not I who says this, but the many customers who, trying a package, re-order more. They like them so much, the comment is nearly always, “They’re addictive.” They really are one of those,”I bet you can’t eat just one” items that are delicious and which, when put out, tend to disappear immediately, since you cannot eat just one! We package them in one pound bags and hope that they go around for a decent aperitif period. To be provident, one should always buy two bags.
The last are the flavored pretzels of the Sisters of St. Benedict from Ferdinand, Indiana, that are not whole pretzels, but broken ones in three flavorings: Spicy, Honey Mustard, and Sweet pretzels. The Sisters originally are from Germany, brought to minister to the German immigrants in the Mid-West of our country and for some time they have baked to make money for their monastery These pretzel pieces are also addictive and in pieces that will beg for a sampling of at least two or three, if not more.
With these three snacks, putting something out for drinks is utterly simple, easy, and delicious entertaining. You just open the container, pour the contents into an attractive bowl and set it out for compliments. If all entertaining were so simple and easy!
Fruit vinegars fall into two camps: one, flavored with fruit and the other, the real one, vinegars made from fermented fruit juice. The Trentino based winery POJER e SANDRI make their vinegar from fruit juice, pressed and fermented in a special vinegar cellar in the Val di Cembra, a porphyry mining area in northern Italy in the Trentino, where there are very few, if any, vineyards and wineries. Both vinegars begin life as freshly pressed juice from local cherries and quinces--pressed and fermented into wine--then acetically fermented to produce a 6 grain (60% acetic acid) vinegar with all the fragrance and flavor of the original fruit. They are not sweet, but dry, having the delicate scent of the original fruit. The Quince vinegar is golden in color and the Cherry, deep red like the skin of the raw fruit.
These vinegars are completely natural and unpasteurized so that with time, they will change color slightly, may throw a deposit and are still acetically active. All of this is completely natural. Over time, they may become turbid and can be used to start your own vinegar
What is very useful are the flavors. The Quince has that lovely, aromatic scent of ripe quince and the scent of well made, clean vinegar. It can be used just as you would any white vinegar, but having the “cotogna” scent which I find intoxicating. The Cherry vinegar is a deep red color, with the scent of mature Marasca cherries, a lightly sour cherry with great body. This can be used for any recipe calling for good red wine vinegar. The cherry scent merely complements the clean vinegar flavor.
A delicious summer drink can be made using one or the other of these vinegars, a slug in a glass topped up with chilled sparkling water and the water adjusted to suit your vinegar preference. Historically, this was “Posca,”the drink the Roman army marched on. It was vinegar flavored water, much healthier than was natural water.
PHILIPPE GONET 2011 BLANC DE BLANCS CHAMPAGNE GRAND CRU, MAGNUMS
In 1969, Corti Brothers offered for the first time a Grower Champagne called Gonet Pere et Fils. It had been found for us by André Tchelistcheff on a trip he made to France. Gonet was the very first of the “grower” Champagnes to come to California. Philippe Gonet was a son who was instructor at the viticulture school in Avize. At the death of his father, Philippe took over the family firm. The house of Gonet is now a seventh generation firm in the Côtes des Blancs, specifically Le Mesnil sur Oger and Oger. We have just bought a rarity, a 2011 vintage Blanc de Blancs from the Grand Cru vineyards owned by the family in Le Mesnil sur Oger.
The best wine from the first importation was a 1961 Brut Champagne, acknowledged by San Franciso Bay Area customers to have been an exceptional wine. Now, almost fifty years later, we are offering magnums of a similar wine for your delectation. It is only in magnums and will be able to live for a good many years with careful cellaring. The magnums were just recently disgorged. But its best attribute is that it is now perfect for drinking and is at a special price for the Holidays 2023. Just like its predecessor many years ago, here is a wine not to be missed. In magnum, the best size for the best experience in wine, you can be certain of a glorious glass either as an aperitif or throughout a meal.
In Champagne there are 318 classified villages, only 17 are classified as Grand Cru. Gonet 2011 comes from only Les Mesnil and Oger vineyards owned by Gonet. Vine age is over 40 years old. It shows that exceptional wines are made from Chardonnay in years when black grapes do not achieve such high quality. I have often thought that Blanc de Blancs Champagnes are the best wines of the area both for their longevity and structure. Here is a lovely, powerful example of what is great Champagne.
Champagne Philippe Gonet finds itself in very good company. The family house and cellars are at the beginning of the street where both Delamotte and Salon are located. From their dining room window, Krug’s Clos de Mesnil is seen next door. The cellars are beneath the family “maison.”
PHILIPPE GONET 2011 BLANC DE BLANCS, Grand Cru, magnums $199.99 mag (#5847) $1,079 cs/6 (#5847C ) (After January 30, 2024, the price goes to $224.99 magnum and $1,214 cs/6)
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TO OUR CUSTOMERS:
I WOULD LIKE TO THANK YOU FOR YOUR CUSTOM AND TO WISH YOU A JOYFUL AND SERENE HOLIDAY SEASON AND A GOOD NEW YEAR.
We are heading into spring, a time of renewal and warmer weather. Hopefully, you will find some interesting items on this newsletter. Please enjoy yourselves.
Darrell Corti
COLOMBA and VENEZIANA
Foods are symbolizers of different times and of special times. The Italian baked sweet bread with candied fruit peels and raisins called COLOMBA, baked in the shape of a flying dove, is the one used in Italy as the Easter bread. It is similar to the Christmas bread, raised, buttery bread called Panettone, but Colomba is not a panettone. It has a drier consistency with a less buttery crumb, but with a softer and more almondy character. It also is seasonal and is found throughout the spring, but primarily enjoyed at Easter.
Another traditional Northern Italian bread found in the Venice region of northern Italy is the Veneziana. It is a slightly dry textured, yeast raised bread with citrus peel and raisins, which is usually found all year long on Italian tables. It shows the long arm of the Venetian Republic since it was gently spiced and flavored with dry fruits, and eaten all year long. It is the symbol of Venice’s wealth and exotic style. Another raised dough bread, the Focaccia, here a sweet, not savory bread, is similar without any fruit. In Venetian it is called “fugassa.”
From that master baker in Vicenza, outside of Venice, Dario Loison, here are the Colombas and Venezianas for this Spring.
CORTI BROTHERS Extra Virgin Olive Oil Selection for 2023
As has been the case for several years now, Corti Brothers is pleased to present to you our selection of Extra Virgin Olive oils for 2023. We have four oils from Mill Press: two from Peru and two from Spain. Two oils from California produced by Pablo Voitzuk, and four from the Olive Truck.
VIGNALTA G.E.M.O.L.A. CHARDONNAY and VIGNALTA SIRIO
VIGNALTA, our favorite winery in the Colli Euganei, outside of Padova has released two new wines, G.E.M.O.L.A Chardonnay and a new form of SIRIO, a dry muscat, from Moscato Fior d’Arancio. The Chardonnay is 2019 and the Sirio 2021. The Chardonnay comes from the site on Monte Gemola where Vignalta’s leading red blend is produced and the same soil condition was tried with Chardonnay with great success. This wine has all of the mineral quality and finesse from the VOLCANIC soil type, without malo-lactic fermentation to retain its acidity, and give the wine a very long life. Fermented in 500 liter casks, it is a remarkable Chardonnay: Vibrant and tense. Eminently drinkable now, but with surprises to come for the future.
The new Sirio, made from Orange Muscat, has an amazing scent and is completely dry. Previous vintages were made out of white muscat, but the Fior d’Arancio has proven to be superior. This is a wine for anytime drinking, but lovely as an aperitif or with vegetable dishes. It is a revelation both for scent and flavor. Perfect for spring.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
DISZNÓKÖ 1413 ÉDES SZAMORODNI 2018–A Classic
DISZNÓKÖ is the name of an estate, a single tract of land, in the Tokaj region of north-eastern Hungary. It dates from 1413 when it was first noted in a land register. The size is some 277 acres of land. At the fall of the Communist Hungarian government, the French insurance company AXA, managed to capture the property in 1992. The vineyards have been replanted and the cellar redone.
The ÉDES SZAMORODNI 1413 is a traditional wine that used to go to Poland. “Szamorodni,” in Polish, means “as it comes”, wine made from the grape clusters picked and pressed, nothing really special being done to them as is done with the famous ASZU wines. There would be dry, shrivelled berries and normal grape berries all together. This sweet white wine is rich, not as rich as an ASZU, but sweet enough. ÉDES is the descriptor, meaning sweet or rich. Another SZAMORODNI, SZÁRAZ, is the dry style, with no sugar.
The 2018 vintage was one of the hottest and earliest ripening ones in Tokaji’s history. The 1413 was harvested between 12 October and 7 November. The varieties are 93% Furmint and 7% Harslevelu, destemmed and given skin contact time before pressing. Fermentation was both in stainless steel and in used 225 liter casks in the traditional underground cellars. When I tasted it, I was taken by its elegance and flowery sweetness and crisp acidity. It could have been a light aszu wine. I was told that it was the de-classification of 3 and 4 puttonyos Tokaji. This could be possible since the wine has 13% alcohol, 153grams of sugar and a total acidity of 7.05g/L. Bottling was in September 2021. It will live a long time and still show its richness. It is sweet enough to be used for desserts or rich enough to be used for foie gras. So, before or after dinner.
Telling you about it now is to encourage you to enjoy it with the Easter Colomba. It is very good with these sweet breads and yet can be used with other dishes as an aperitif. I find the wine delicious anytime. Once opened the bottle can be kept at least two weeks in the fridge.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
NURI Portuguese tinned fish
The idea of tinned fish, you know, mainly “Blue Fish” like tuna, sardines, mackerel, has taken on a life of its own. They have found favor with consumer’s current life style, looking for different things and different flavors. In countries like Spain and Italy, they have never lost their luster. In the U.S. they have really been down played, but are now on the comeback. During the late 1800s, these fish products were so well thought of that silverware sets had special forks for them which now have become collector’s items.
The Portuguese have been producers of these products and at the head of this trend for a very long time. One of the most important producers still working is the Pinhais company, based at Matosinhos, at the mouth of the Douro River where it meets the Atlantic at Porto in northern Portugal. This production dates from 1920 and the identical system of production is still practiced today. With the exception of two mechanized procedures, everything is still done by hand. In this respect, it is a living historical museum of a food product. It would be a lovely visit for anyone going to Porto and the Port Country. LINK: factorytour@pinhais.pt
The brand name is “NURI” and the company products come wrapped by hand in colorful paper just as they did in 1935 when created. Fresh fish is purchased from local fishermen and the fish is then headed and gutted, then quickly steamed, trimmed and put into tins with olive oil or spiced olive oil--then shipped for our delectation. The spiciness is not hot, but is savory, lending a bit of piquancy to the fish, but not heat.
A very interesting things about these Nuri products is that they improve with age. It appears that tinned “blue” fish products like being immersed in olive oil, and their flavor improves with time in tin. In fact, there are sardine productions that are dated just to insure that this fact is made known to the consumer. Something to try.
Good bread, a tin of Nuri and some wine: Dinner is served. With fresh, steamed rice, a delight.
TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection.
VIGNALTA SALE ALLE ERBE (Herbed salt to us)
VIGNALTA is the name of a winery in the hills close to Padova in Italy’s Veneto Region. It is in the area called the Colli Euganei, a thermal spring area, where the vineyards are on volcanic soils from now extinct volcanos. On the vineyards are wild growing herbs, rosemary, marjoram, thyme, which are harvested then dried with Sicilian sea salt and packaged. This herbed salt is probably one of the most delicious salts on the market and indispensable in the kitchen for seasoning meat of any kind. This is what I use for my roasts, turkey, and chicken when the mood strikes. For lamb or pork chops and steaks of every type, it is obligatory. In short, every well run kitchen should not be without it. It also makes a wonderful hostess gift that will be well remembered for your having brought it. Don’t be caught without Vignalta salt.
When I first wrote about this rice in our Fall 2020 newsletter, it sold out. With difficulty a new shipment has just arrived, and it is ready to supply all those customers who have been clamoring for it since the fall. Not only has the Covid pandemic made life difficult, it has made international shipping a nightmare. But we have finally received a new shipment of KHAZANA SMOKED BASMATI. Since 2016 Basmati has a G.I., or Geographical Indication. The word “Basmati” is from a Sanskrit word, through Hindi, meaning “Queen of Fragrance.”
KHAZANA SMOKED BASMATI elongates, but does not widen. It is astoundingly pleasant in the mouth when cooked-fluffy and savory, with an impressive texture due to its elongation. Some grains elongate to 3/4 of an inch or more.
The easiest method of preparing this Basmati rice is to measure the amount you want to use, washing in a strainer until the water runs clear, and then soaking with cold water for about an hour. Drain the rice from its soaking water and put into the cooking pot. Add enough clean water to come to about the level of your index finger’s first joint. Add some salt and a pat of butter. Bring to a boil and let cook until tiny craters form on the surface of the rice. Turn heat off and place the pot lid, covered with a clean cloth, to absorb the steam. Let rest for about fifteen minutes. Do not uncover! Then fluff with a fork and serve. Smoked rice is used for Persian New Year (Nurooz) observed in March, but is delicious anytime.
CHADO INDONESIAN SILVER NEEDLE TEA (Available beginning 3/27/2023)
Silver Needle tea is probably one of the most time consuming teas to produce. First the plucking must be done by knowledgeable pluckers, just the tip of the growing shoot is needed. Then the tea is withered and dried quickly to retain all the young shoot flavor; then each needle is plucked from the mass of leaves so that what you get is nothing but this pale grey, sword shaped leaf. One needs nimble fingers and good eyes to perform well in producing this tea. It is not inexpensive. Selected from the Chado Tea Co. stocks.
Produced in Bandung, West Java, Indonesia. The project started in 1861 by Mr. Eduard Julius Kerkhoven (1834-1915) from Sinagar Tea company in West Java. Production is at most 50 kilos of tea per month due to hand plucking and then hand refining. It is a wonderful looking tea leaf and a delicious pale liquor in the cup. The tea cultivar is unique: Camelia sinensis Gambung. Brewing can be done either short or long steeping, depending on your taste. Silver Needle is also perfect as an accompaniment to food.
Probably one of the rarest alcoholic products made is this one. It was never for sale in the U.S. and if you were a fan of the liqueur Chartreuse, you picked it up in Europe and brought it back with you. The original name of this “liqueur,” in its cylindrical wooden box was “Elixir Végétal de la Grande-Chartreuse.” What our government didn’t like was the term “Elixir,” denoting something they didn’t like. So what has happened? The name was simply modified to be VÉGÉTAL. And it is now here.
What it is, is the original type of liqueur of Chartreuse. This is the product was originally sold by the Carthusian monks from their distillery at the monastery of the Grande Chartreuse, and which was to become the world famous green colored liqueur. Chartreuse has now taken on a different life of its own. A former Director of the marketing company of Chartreuse, Chartreuse Diffusion, once told me he had the honor of being the president of a company which sold a product, sold throughout the world, that no one drank. Things have changed a lot. Chartreuse is now the darling of bars and collectors who vie for any of the products made by the two monks who are responsible for its production. The Végétal is the product that was never available in the U.S. until now..
It comes in a 100 ml bottle, encased in its cylindrical, wooden box and is made to be enjoyed mixed. It has 69% alcohol, thus 138 proof, and is used with water and a sugar cube to make an exemplary tisane. The best way, I think, is to follow the recipe for a tisane, a tea, made with it. A few drops of Végétal are put on a sugar cube placed in a tea cup and the cup is then filled with hot water. The scent is perfectly the aroma of the Green Chartreuse. It has no caffeine and is a lovely digestif. It can also be used as a bitters element in various mixed drinks. Now produced at the new distillery of Chartreuse at Entre-Deux-Guiers, in the countryside of Voiron, on a grange owned by the Carthusian order since the 17th century, distillation has moved from the cellar in Voiron where both distillation and aging of the liqueur used to take place. It is the fifth distillery in the 400 year history of the liqueur.
What was once a fine item brought back from a European vacation is now available here. Hooray!
VÉGÉTAL de la GRANDE-CHARTREUSE 100ml $29.99 each (#5739)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
TWO BOOKS ON CHARTREUSE
Corti Brothers still has a few copies of the two indispensable works on Chartreuse, the liqueur and then on the religious order of the Carthusians, its producer. Both are in French. The “lingua franca” of food and wine is French and here you should be able to improve your French reading ability and learn something in depth about the liqueur and its producer.
Then, for those not interested in improving their French, the remarkable film about this 900 year old religious order, INTO GREAT SILENCE. Look it up!
SILVER MOUNTAIN ALLOY 2013 and 2014 from Santa Cruz Mountains
Silver Mountain is a small winery in the Santa Cruz Mountain area, actually near Los Gatos, whose first wine was made in 1979. The owner Jerold O’Brien, is an old customer of Corti Brothers and a former airline pilot for Western Airlines, just like the late Joe Swan--the other ex-pilot winemaker in Sonoma County. O’Brien is from Sacramento and found his property at 2100 feet elevation in 1972 and reclaimed what had been a vineyard from 1870 to 1920. (Remember Prohibition?) He has made wines from this area either from his own vineyard or neighbors and has quietly just sold to locals and wine buyers searching the Santa Cruz area for good wine. It is now time to uncover his hidden light and show what the area can produce and how it ages. ALLOY, is his name for a Cabernet based blend coming from these historic and historical vineyards.
The Santa Cruz mountain area was a hot bed of fine grape growing and wine making that pretty much ended with Prohibition. This is the area of what was to become Ridge Vineyards, Mount Eden and others. Historically, it was the source of a lot of very fine grape material, first imported into this area before finding homes else where in California. SILVER MOUNTAIN, the winery, was heavily damaged in the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake. Loma Prieta is nearby the winery. But everything has been repaired and grape growing and wine making have proceeded apace. What is unique about the Silver Mountain Alloy is that it is almost 10 years old and still for sale. We are offering two vintages: 2013 and 2014.
The bottles have never left the winery and have been developing slowly into what I think is essentially a mirror of the elegance that mountain vineyards can produce with Bordeaux varieties. It is just these kinds of nuggets of delicious wine, still affordable and still to be found for sale that make looking at small wineries for interesting and delicious drinks. I think you should be aware of the Silver Mountain Alloy wines just because they can be found; still reasonable in price; so good, and eminently enjoyable.
What they are not is over-hyped, over-oaked, over-extracted, nor over priced. Since Jerold O’Brien has never overplayed nor over-emphasized his own wine, yet is the spokesperson for the entire appellation, you should give these two Alloy wines a try. I think, as I was, you will be impressed.
SILVER MOUNTAIN ALLOY 2013 or 2014 are Cabernet dominant Santa Cruz Mountain red wines, made from de-stemmed, not crushed clusters in a whole berry ferment; punched down with air pressure, and moved by gravity. In other words, gentle wine making technology. Alcohol is lower than 13.8%. The bouquet is fine and elegant, likewise the flavor. They are a time capsule of California wine making.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
It is to you that Corti Brothers gives thanks. You speak with us, buy from, question us and stand by us. For this, Corti Brothers gives you our thanks. As the Holidays approach, I would like to invite our customers to consider slowing down a bit, savoring moments, family and friends. Take it a bit easier!
Our Best Wishes for a serene Holiday season and a wonderful New Year.
DOMAINE COSTA LAZARIDI MALAGOUZIA 2021
MALAGOUSIA is probably the most famous of the Greek white varieties that almost became extinct. Due to the work of Evangelos Gerovasilliou from Porto Carras, in resurrecting it, this variety took off. An analogy in French varieties is that of Viognier, which wasn’t exactly extinct, but grown in only two appellations in France before the late 1960s. Curiously, Malagouzia has some of the characteristics of Viognier: it makes a full bodied white, has a special scent and was not very much planted. In Malagouzia’s case, in the late 1960s, it was almost extinct. Gerovasilliou managed to bring it back into cultivation, and now it is found in many Greek appellations. The Lazaridis version is from Drama, in northern Greece, an hour away from Thessaloniki. It has a lovely fresh character, is lightly scented with a spring flower, muscat-y scent with good body. It also comes in a flint bottle with a glass stopper for a closure that, once the bottle is emptied, and label removed, makes a lovely decanter.
First written about in 1888 and then in 1943, the variety is also used in the blend of white grapes making up the PDO of Rhodes. It is not a highly productive variety, since it makes few clusters and is subject to vine diseases. It is also one of the earliest varieties to ripen in the country. The Costa Lazaridi estate, founded in 1979, grows it on a high altitude vineyard which lowers productivity but increases quality.
When I tasted this wine at a customer’s home with the importer, it really spoke to me, and I thought here was a white wine that had all the markings of a lovely, medium full bodied white, to fill in the blanks for other white varieties more commonly seen. One does not often see a wine “Jurassic Park” element be so delicious.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
IL CANZONIERE CABERNET FRANC RISERVA 2017
This is a delicious red wine in anybody’s book. It is an unblended Cabernet Franc under the CORTI BROTHERS label from the Veneto from 2017 vintage. This was bottled from a unique 500 liter puncheon and is exclusive to us. It is also going to be rare since there is not much to be had and at a recent wine soirée, was the only bottle of red wine finished among 6 people with other lovely wines. I would like to think that in any tasting, the wine that is finished first is the best. With a lovely red color, actually red, not purple-ish, a scented aroma, now developing bottle bouquet and a silky finish, this would be a fine holiday red right now. It also has some stuffing that shows it is not all done developing and will further delight with more bottle time. If we just had a little more of it! It will make a lovely accompaniment to a roast turkey or to Prime Rib.
IL CANZONIERE CABERNET FRANC RISERVA 2017 $39.99 750ml (5601) Cs/12 $431.00 (5601C)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
PANETTONE FOR CHRISTMAS:
Loison and BardiPANETTONE is the holiday bread for Italians. It is celebrated as the Christmas treat and has become necessary for a traditional celebration. Here are our selections for this Holiday Season. Due to the strength of the US dollar, we have maintained the exact same prices as last year.
PANETTONE LOISON: All are in kilo size unless noted.
VENEZIANA is less buttery and fluffy in texture than panettone, drier textured but spiced reflecting Venice’s long tradition on the Spice Road. Panettone is Milano, and Veneziana is, well, Venice.
LOISON FILONE: Filone is a sweet bread similar to panettone, but in a loaf shape. Its name FILONE is also used for the “baguette shape” of bread. Filone comes from the traditional “panfrutto” created by Dario Loison’s father. Filone are all 450g in size. Perfect for slicing and toasting in the morning or as a snack in the afternoon.
Vintage Madeira for upcoming birthdays:1934-44-54-64
It has become more and more difficult to get birthday wines. To insure some upcoming birthdays, I am offering Vintage Madeiras which we have held. They all end in “4.” Which means that in quickly upcoming dates, they will be for wine lovers born 90,80,70 and 60 years ago. We may think that we are not old at these ages, but we are. And Vintage Madeira is probably the only wine that at these “mature” ages is still really good and interesting. It takes a very special kind of wine to go this long haul, and since everything that can be done to wine has been done to Madeira, it is probably the most apt to be in near perfect condition.
So, to this end, Corti Brothers is offering some bottles of the “4" ending dates that mark significant birthdays. If you want to drink these during the fateful year, I would suggest buying them now to insure you will have them. Madeira is also one, if not the only, wine that does not have to be finished in one go, but can be kept open for some months so that the enjoyment of it will last, making a bottle a “real time” bargain. As to storage also, the bottle just needs to be kept standing upright and can be sipped on until empty. There should be some deposit and this can either be filtered though a dampend coffee filter or used for cooking. In fact, a spoonful or so, lends marvelous character to sauces and such. But to be able to have these venerable wines, you must buy them when offered. Otherwise, they just keep going up in price and rarity, finally becoming extinct.
These wines are offer on a one bottle per customer basis, to stretch out the number of bottles available. But please do not wait too long to order them because they will be gone! Please phone us directly to secure your order.
We have: Malvasia 1934 Henriques & Henriques $2,034.00 each (#5634) Verdelho 1934 Henriques & Henriques $2,034.00 each (#5635) Sercial 1944 Henriques & Henriques $1,540.00 each (#5636) Terrantez 1944 Henriques & Henriques $2,500.00 each (#5637) Boal 1954 Henriques & Henriques $980.00 each (#5638) Malvasia 1954 Henriques & Henriques $1095.00.00 each (#5639) Terrantez 1954 Henriques & Henriques $1,434.00.00 each (#5640) Malvazia 1964 Henriques & Henriques $946.00 each (#5641)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
A 50 year old Birthday Madeira for this year: BLANDY BUAL 1972
A just arrived Madeira from the stock of the family firm of Blandy is here and I cannot think of a better wine for celebrating a 50 year anniversary. 1972 is not a felicitous year for wines. There are very few successes in that vintage. Most areas in Europe were a wash out, literally. Barolo and Barbaresco simply declassified the entire vintage, Chianti Classico the same. California and Bordeaux are not worth talking about. But here you have a really splendid wine which is stunning.
Bual is the name of the white grape variety that makes the wine and is in a medium range of sweetness for Madeira. In fact, I think that if all Madeira could, it probably would be Bual. There is a certain discreet balance to the wine which makes it perhaps the easiest to drink of the five varietals that make up most of the island’s production.
However, if you want a 1972 to celebrate with, here is your chance. But do not dawdle!
BLANDY BUAL MADEIRA 1972 21 % $492.00 the bottle (#5642)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
SOULSIDE COFFEE: A Tale of Two Coffees
We do a lot of foraging work on our travels. Sometimes we don’t have to look further than our own backyard. Once in a while someone near our own backyard just happens to come to us. Enter Cher Grosse.
Cher has been operating a business collecting, restoring, and selling vintage coffee machines from her Sacramento home. The business was born out of her love of coffee. She was introduced to us by a long time customer and friend. Her first coffee roasting experience came at age 20 in the David mountains outside Panama City, Panama where she was living at the time. The experience of that first roast on an iron pan over a wood fire would become ingrained into her coffee soul. She has traveled through many of the world’s coffee growing regions over time allowing for her to develop very high roasting skills. Cher wanted more from coffee, so she began the Soulside Coffee Company in Sacramento dedicated to the art of Hand Roasted Single Origin Coffee. If you would like to see a video of Cher’s collection, Just click on the “Corti TV” icon below
This rare coffee comes from the island of Bali in Indonesia. It is only the second time in 75 years we have been able to offer a coffee from Bali. A true micro lot purchase, this coffee is family owned, small farm grown, on volcanic soil at 1200 - 1600 meters. It is a full natural coffee that is dried on raised beds and is a Bourbon variety. Irrigation is sustainable, developed by Hindu priests approximately 1000 years ago. The coffee grows with citrus trees to provide shade, which gives additional income to the family. Cupping notes; exotic nose, cognac, fine chocolate, smooth finish.
Monsoon Malabar is actually a process. The process of being “ Monsooned.” In the coffee growing region of the Malabar coast of southwestern India, coffee beans are harvested and naturally processed then exposed to the monsoon rain and winds of the region for a period of about three to four months. This causes the beans to swell and lose their original acidity, resulting in a flavor profile with a practically neutral pH balance. The resulting beans can range from a very pale green to almost pale white. Cher sources her Monsoon Malabar from small farms that have been in operation for almost 100 years. This coffee shows flavors of creamy chocolate and spice with low acidity. It is very good for using the French Press system.
SOMETHING NEW MADE IN PARMA, ITALY: Firelli Hot Sauce
Here is one of our newest in-store-customer favorites: FIRELLI hot sauce from Parma, Italy. Recently launched in the U.S., its founder, Elwyn Gladstone, and his team set out to create an Italian hot sauce apart from typical hot sauces on the market. They focused on the appetite for pizza in the U.S. to formulate their recipe. Tabasco® Hot Sauce from Louisiana is almost as common as Ketchup in America, but Italian cuisine doesn’t have such a hot sauce. That might change. The goal was to create more of a flavorful, slightly sweet, mildly spicy, condiment rather than a full on, fire-y hot sauce, used to embellish food and made in Parma, the heart of food in Italy. We think that they have succeeded!
Made from all natural ingredients, Firelli Hot Sauce is composed of a base sauce made from roasted red peppers rather than tomatoes. The addition of Calabrian peppers, Aceto Balsamico Di Modena IGP, porcini mushrooms, lemon juice and spices yield a hot sauce that offers a truly flavorful “zing” to your dishes.
It is a perfect addition on pizza and pasta. This sauce goes so much further. Try it on eggs, hash browns, deli sandwiches, and even in salad dressing. Our visiting customers seem to be hooked. We think you could be too.
THE SIGNATURE WINES OF SUPERIOR CALIFORNIA: A new California wine book by Mike Dunne
First off, I wrote the Introduction to this work, self published by Sacramento’s former Bee Wine and Food editor, D. Michael Dunne. We have been friends for a long time. Mike Dunne has, without a doubt, the best exposure to the vineyards and wines of the area surrounding Sacramento than anyone I know. He has lived the experience and has written about the area for almost fifty years
The half title of the work is “50 wines that define the Sierra Foothills, the Delta, Yolo, and Lodi.” And it does just that. It is a particularly nice blend of tasting information and actual history, both of a specific winery and the region it is in. Mike has lived most of the places, people and wines he writes about, making this a real treasure of information for the novice, and also for the well read and traveled wine knowledgeable drinker, who doubtless will find nuggets of information that were probably unknown. I know I did! It is a very lovely production in paperback, with an immensely readable text, which merits your attention. So far, nothing similar is on the market.
TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection.
Please order early for best selection. Shipping times increase during the busy Holiday season.
WHITE TURKISH DRIED FIGS IN A VERY SPECIAL PRODUCTION
Several years ago, Corti Brothers offered some very special Turkish, white Smyrna figs that had been trimmed of their stem end and then the”eye” or bottom end and rolled into a cylinder, wrapped in cellophane and then in foil. They were luxurious and, for fig lovers, almost spellbinding. We have now found a producer that has shipped another order to Corti Brothers for this holiday season. If you like figs--if you adore figs--these are for you. There is no other elegant production of figs to be enjoyed by simply unwrapping them and putting them in your mouth. All the work is done by hand and is really elegant. Even if you thought you didn’t like figs, this preparation may change your mind. It is literally enjoying a dried fruit that has been carved into perfection.
The Incir Evi figs are handcrafted, dried fruits which are truly exceptional. Golden skinned when dried, the Smyrna fig has a pretty ruby color on the inside, with tiny, yellowish seeds. This is the variety’s natural color. All natural with a balanced sweet/not sweet flavor, it is a dried fruit which is satisfyingly sweet tasting yet not sugary. Tasting these figs, you can see why figs were and are considered such a great delicacy. These are Smyrna figs literally from Izmir, formerly Smyrna.
Using the name MONASTERY BAKED GOODS, the community of Benedictine nuns in Ferdinand, Indiana, produce and package an interesting line of traditional cookies and pretzels. The nuns arrived in the U.S. in 1852 from the Benedictine abbey of St. Walburga in Eichstatt, Germany to minister to the German speakers in the Midwest. In 1867, they established another foundation in Ferdinand, Indiana. They carry on the German tradition of monastic baking.
I am particularly taken with their GINGERSNAPS, which I find delicious after a simple meal, when you really don’t want more to eat, but there is still some red wine in your glass. I find the gingersnaps really lovely as an accompaniment to the remaining wine, since, not overly sweet, and crispy textured, they complement the tannic character of the wine by tingeing it with a slight sweet and slightly peppery character. I prefer them with dry wine rather than something like Port, since the snappy ginger character goes better with a dry wine. At least for me! (They could be used with a lot of other wines also.)
Pretzels, broken pretzels, have recently been added to the line up. They are called PRAYERFUL PRETZELS, coming from the traditional crossed arm shape of whole pretzels. The coating of the pretzels is what changes and flavors the pieces. There is HONEY MUSTARD, with a kick of tangy mustard and then sweetness from honey. The SWEET pretzels are coated with a mixture of cinnamon, sugar, and nutmeg. SPICY pretzels are hot with a hint of sweetness. They come in 12 ounce resealable bags.
Put in a bowl for holiday entertaining, they will disappear in no time.
CALLIPO is a tuna production based in Italy’s Calabria region in a town called Pizzo historically known for tuna fishing and processing in what is called “Tonnare.” We have been after this company for about 20 years. Now they are registered with the U.S. government and the Callipo products are here. The most important tuna they pack is the YELLOWFIN VENTRESCA IN OLIVE OIL, Gold Reserve. The tuna ventresca or tuna belly is the most select part of the fish and is a silky, tender and delicious can of tuna. Unfortunately, not a lot is produced since the belly meat is a rather small part of the tuna body.
VENTRESCA OF TUNA, is not like what is found in a normal can of tuna fish. It is really special and since 1913 Callipo has produced tuna from the Gulf of Sant”Eufemia along Calabria’s Mediterranean coast. The tuna caught there was trapped in a net cage system when the tuna move en masse for egg laying. This is in the May-June period. Callipo tuna is made exclusively from raw fish at the Pizzo plant.
If you have never tried Ventresca Tuna, you should. It will change your mind on the attractiveness of canned tuna.
Fall has come and the holidays are close. We have some very interesting items on this newsletter which should prepare you for entertaining and enjoying the season. Darrell Corti
A NEW VARIETAL AND WINES FROM ANDIS WINERY IN AMADOR COUNTY
I would like to introduce to our customers three new wines from a relatively young Amador County winery, ANDIS WINERY. I have written about several Andis wines previously: Semillon, Zinfandel and some others. Now I would like to introduce to you ANDIS ARINTO 2021, the 2020 PAINTED FIELDS Curse of Knowledge, and ANDIS AMADOR CLASSICO 2020
ANDIS ARINTO is the only Arinto so far produced in California. I asked that they plant this Portuguese variety that was famous in the mid 19th century in England where its wine had been brought into the country by the Duke of Wellington at the end of the Napoleonic war in Portugal. In those days, a wine made from Arinto called Bucelas, was famous as “Portuguese Hock.” Since the variety has very good acidity and maintains it, I had thought that it might just be something interesting for Amador County. This vintage is the first to be bottled. Previous wines went into the blend called Sierra Blanc. There is very little Bucelas imported into this country, and it seems the acreage for this wine keeps diminishing since the appellation is near the Lisbon airport and keeps getting eaten up by airport development.
Except for Bucelas, very little Arinto is being made as a stand alone variety in Portugal. It does enter into a number of other white blends where it lends acidity and backbone. But here is your chance to taste the pure variety, Arinto is unlike Verdelho which is much softer. It has that “riesling-like” backbone that makes for a sprightly young wine and then a wine that will show other characteristics with age just as riesling does. It is this kind of cultivar from a warmish area that we need to satisfy the requisites for varieties during this period of climate warming. In my opinion, no variety should be discarded unless it cannot withstand the scrutiny of where it can and why it should be planted.
Andis, under the PAINTED FIELDS label, “Curse of Knowledge” is a Bordeaux blend of grapes coming from the Sierra Foothills, not necessarily from Amador County. The winery has thrown its net wide and comes up with a blend that drinks like a Bordeaux-ish red wine with delicious drinkability, with some reserve components for further bottle aging, but right now, it is not very difficult to finish a bottle once opened. The “Curse of Knowledge” name comes from the fact that supposedly California drinkers know what Cabernet style wines should taste like and sometimes that hinders true appreciation. Here, I think, is an example of a wine that removes the “curse” if one only accepts it for what it is. “Painted Fields” was supposed to have been the name of the winery that is now called ANDIS. Andis, itself, is the anagram of the couple who own the winery: Andy and Janis.
The last wine is a blend for which I created a name. It is a 50/50 blend of Amador Barbera and Zinfandel. The name I created for it, and thought I had given it to the Amador growers, was to call the wine MONTANARO. It was to be a generic name signifying this 50/50 blend which I had thought a very good one. One winery uses it and so Andis thought it was their proprietary name. I had conceived of it as a regional generic one, that all in the county could use.. The Andis version is called AMADOR CLASSICO. The 2020 vintage is the first one they have bottled and it is a right smart blend. The color is very pretty, a good red, not purplish. The acidity of the Barbera, and its cherry like character complements the body and grapey-ness of the Zinfandel, making a real lipsmacker of a wine. At 13.9%, it fits into an “easy to drink style” with plenty in reserve to mature very well in bottle. There is only one problem: can you keep your hands off it long enough? This is a charmer if Amador County ever made one!
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
CAPITAL! RYE MALT WHISKY from Davis and Whisky Science: A Condensed Distillation
CAPITAL ! RYE MALT WHISKY is produced in probably what is the smallest distillery in California. The distiller is a UC Davis professor of Chemical Engineering named Greg Miller. He has also written a very good, somewhat technical book on distillation labeled Whisky Science: A Condensed Distillation. But what really interests us is his distilled product. However, if you are a whiskey buff, you should own a copy of his book.
Right now, his first for sale product, is a Rye Whisky at 53.4% alcohol and which is five years young, but eminently drinkable. Some products are meant to be enjoyed just because they are really good, not necessarily very old. In fact, Rye Whisky is America’s first whisky, and it was never made to be drunk old, just moderately aged so that one tasted the spicy character of the rye used in its production.
Greg Miller’s whisky, Capital ! Rye is five years old. It is old enough to be tasty and young enough to show the characteristics of the grain used in its distillation. As America’s first whisky, it is also the first product to use in drinks like a Manhattan, where the whisky is Rye, not Bourbon. Since it is Rye, with its dominant flavor, it acts as the counterpart to sweet vermouth and bitters which are the other ingredients. Capital ! Malt Rye Whisky is a dry finished whisky which has been distilled in a homemade pot still and distilled on the grain, that is with the actual grain in the still. It has been aged in Missouri oak in highly varying temperature conditions which also affects flavor. It has been only lightly filtered, not chill filtered, and bottled at cask strength. A delicious Manhattan can be made with equal parts Capital Rye, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, a dash or two of Angostura Bitters, some ice and a slice of lemon. Stir, then enjoy.
The label is strikingly simple. It almost takes you aback, but it is remember-able, something which is very important on a shelf.
The 1887 edition of Jerry Thomas’ The Bar-Tender’s Guide, gives the Manhattan recipe as using rye whiskey. The curmudgeonly columnist of the San Francisco Chronicle, Charles McCabe, wrote a column about Jerry Thomas in 1962 commenting on the 100th anniversary of the publication of his book in 1862. It was reprinted in 2012. McCabe comments that “When Americans lost their taste for proper booze, (unadorned) we began to go down the drain.” He probably would have enjoyed Capital! Rye Malt Whisky very much. You might like it too. . CAPITAL! 5 YEAR OLD Straight Rye Malt Whiskey 106.8% $54.99 750ml (#5553)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
OUR SELECTION OF NEW EXTRA VIRGIN OILS: 2022 production from Peru: Criolla and Coratina and two Spanish oils.
This year, 2022, we have a new selection of extra virgin oil from the southern hemisphere. From Peru precisely. Present day Peru, is only one part of what was one of the most important Spanish outposts in the New World. It was a Vice-royalty, meaning that it controlled various lands which became different countries in the Spanish part of South America. The first olives trees were imported into what we now know as Peru in 1519 and were known to be the Sevillano cultivar, which now has taken on the name of “Criolla.” It has adapted to conditions in the country and was given its name “Criolla” since it became, like the Mission grapes in California, emblematic as the “original” planted variety of olive. This variety was selected because of its dual purpose attitude: use as a table olive and for oil. But its use as a table olive was primary. For the colonies, oil came from Spain.
Seventy percent of Peru’s olive production is for table olives and a majority is from Criolla. But it is not only the variety that makes good oil; it has to be made properly. I think you will find that this new oil will surprise and delight you. Sevillano oil is also made in California, and you should taste it when found.
Another oil from Peru selected is the southern Italian cultivar Coratina. This cultivar produces oil in Italy’s south and now is found also in California. Our Peruvian example is a wonderful example of the cultivar with great pungency. This characteristic makes Coratina an oil highly regarded by lovers of full flavored oils.
The two Spanish oils selected for this year were again produced under the sharp eye of Marino Uceda, probably Spain’s most famous oil expert. There are two: an Hojiblanca from Málaga offered last year and a Picudo, new for this year.
The Hojiblanca comes from an orchard, designed and planted by Marino for his wife’s family. The property is in Málaga. Picudo is one of Spain’s less planted varietals, making a very intense, yet balanced oil, again from the southern end of Andalucia. Picudo is rarely seen as a varietal oil, but produces a very fine, intense oil. It should be experienced.
All four oils have been bottled by MillPress in Pennsylvania in 500ml bottles and are available now.
NOTA BENE: ON TUESDAY, OCTOBER 4, I WAS INFORMED OF THE DRAMATIC PROBLEM OF OLIVE OIL PRODUCTION IN SPAIN. PRODUCTION IS DOWN MORE THAN 50%. JUST TO SUGGEST THAT NOW IS THE TIME TO BUY EXTRA VIRGIN OIL. A WORD OF WARNING.
ARDOINO VALL’AUREA: Ligurian Extra Virgin Oil
Corti Brothers has sold Ardoino Vall’Aurea Ligurian oil since 1980. It comes in its traditional gold foil wrapped bottle. This oil is different from most other oils since it is a light fruity oil, has always been, and so will remain. The Taggiasca olives that make this oil are harvested when the fruit falls into nets suspended between the trees on the Italian coast going from Genoa west, to the French border–the Riviera di Ponente. This is the style of oil preferred by the Ligurians. It is an oil that is soft, mellow and delicate. It has none of that “in your face” pungency and bitterness of most other regions of Italy. It has its own base of admirers. Just as a comment: A Tuscan friend who once tried this oil style remarked: “If I had to use this oil, I would prefer to use butter!” So much for his taste!
However, Ligurian style oil has its many admirers. It does not compete with flavor, but anoints with silkiness. It complements flavors and does not overwhelm them. Its taste is that of ripe fruit, not green fruit. If this is what you look for in an oil, ARDOINO VALL’AUREA is for you. It color is golden, not green; its flavor is fresh and silky, not pungent and bitter. This is its style which is now almost unique in Italy. Its name says it all: “Vall’Aurea,” Golden Valley.
CANTINA della VOLTA A “Metodo Classico” Lambrusco di Sorbara
This production of Lambrusco is from Cantina della Volta founded by Giuseppe (Beppe) Bellei, now run by his son. I had met Beppe in the late 1980s when he was just starting production and Corti Brothers sold his wines for a while. When he was no longer here, the production became unavailable. Now it is back. His son, Christian, restarted in 2010.
You might ask, “why a “methode champenoise” Lambrusco?” Well, because it can be done and is very good that’s why! Lambrusco is a whole series of grape varieties, some 13 at latest count, some of which are better suited to this production than others. The Lambrusco variety used at Cantina della Volta is called Sorbara--Lambrusco di Sorbara– and is recognized as being the most elegant of the varieties. Sorbara is a village just outside of Modena, between the Secchia and Panaro rivers. Firstly, the variety is always a black grape. (Think pinots in Champagne) They have very good acidity. (Think grapes from Champagne.) Hence, a combination that makes sense in producing by the champagne method. These wines are not Champagne; but made entirely the same way, with very good results. In Italian the same term is called “metodo classico.”
In fact, the cellar begins its life three generations ago as a typical producer in the Modena area. Beppe Bellei starts producing methode champenoise wines by planting Pinot noir and Chardonnay from the Champagne district since the soil of Bomporto, where the cellar is, is similar. The cellar name comes from where river boats would turn after leaving Modena and travel back up river. Hence the name “della Volta” where the boats “turn” to return. This also accounts for the pictoral device of the white sailed river boat on the label.
These Lambrusco di Sorbara wines are very fine wines that can be rosé, then more “partridge-eye.”or light red, or white “blancs des noirs.” They also give the lie to the fact that only some grapes can make excellent sparkling wine. It really comes down to how well you can make the wine.
Lambrusco gets pretty short shrift in the wine marketplace. At one time, it was the most popular wine in the U.S. But that style, sweetish sparkling red wine, led a lot of people to wine and then the wine got lost. A lot of really good Lambrusco is now on the market in this style, but Cantina della Volta is practically the only producer making a metodo classico style. We have four different wines:
CANTINA della VOLTA DOSAGGIO ZERO “La Prima Volta” 2018. Its name is also a play on words. In this case the “Volta” means “time” as in “The first Time.” It has no dosage. The BRUT ROSE 2016, is a lovely pink color. The BRUTROSSO 2017, is a darkish “partridge eye red” a version of the classic Lambrusco di Sorbara. The Millesimato, or vintage dated, is a classic “blanc des noirs” in a red color wrapped flint bottle.
I find that the Cantina della Volta wines are terrific with food, not only as “bubbly” or an aperitif, but throughout a meal. They were conceived for this. There is a certain richness and weight to the wines that makes them eminently drinkable, especially with slightly fattier dishes, substantial dishes, for the coming cooler weather. They are unique and very well made. You should try them.
CANTINA della VOLTA
Dosaggio Zero “La Prima Volta” 2018 12.5% $46.99 (#5560)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
GEORGIAN TEA: A REVIVAL
Tea is grown in Georgia, the country, not the state. It used to be very important in world production since it supplied primarily the enormous Russian market and then other countries looking for inexpensive tea. These were essentially countries where tea was practically the national beverage. And then everything stopped. On my first trip to Georgia in 2011, no tea was to be found on the market in Tblisi. I asked about it and was told, the plants have been uprooted. No market!
But this was not the case. The Russian market collapsed and growers simply faded away. But now, the old plantations, overcoming the infestations of ferns and other plants, have started to be revived. Plantations which date from 1847 and tea production which dates from 1893, are starting to come back. During Soviet times, Georgia produced about 95% of the tea sold in Russia. In 1985, 152,000 tons of tea were produced. In 2014, 1,800 tons. This comes with both an agricultural and human cost. The best tea is picked by hand, and this labor force was forced to do other things. But things are changing. Tea plantations are being revived.
Georgia is a country facing the Black Sea. At its western end, the environment is almost semi-tropical; splendid for growing tea. Georgia is at the northernmost area for tea growing. Its climate and soil conditions and cultivars make a special combination of flavor- producing conditions that induce a wonderful effect in tea. Most cultivars are crosses of Chinese plants, Camellia sinensis with the Indian cultivar, Camellia assamica, grown from seed. Some of the plantations are up to 70 years of age, with a subtropical, yet cool fall climate and acidic soils. There are no pests, hence no chemical treatments are necessary.
A company, actually a restaurant, called Poliphonia, is now shipping out of Georgia both black and green orthodox tea from these original cultivars labeled as BAEBOS GARAGE TEA. They are worth your tasting. Much less bitter than either China or India teas, their refreshing character is amazing. In resealable 100g bags. Limited quantities available are:
TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection.
CHERCHI PERGAMENA DI PANE GUTTIAU
Every visitor to Sardinia (Sardegna) has tasted “su pane carasau” or for the Sardinians, “bread.” It is also called “carta da musica” since it looks like what used to be a stiff paper on which musical notation could be written. It is one of the most distinctive items of Sardinian cuisine. Now, the pane carasau baker, CHERCHI of Alghero in the northwest of Sardinia, has come out with a variant which is another one of those “I bet you can’t eat just one” foods which when found are really stimulating and exciting. Flavorwise, it is simply delicious!
The word “guttiau” for this “pane” means “drizzled with oil,” in this case by the addition of olive oil and salt. It is also much thinner than the normal pane carasau and is in a square shape. It is extremely friable due to its thinness. In fact it looks like a golden, shiny sheet of cracker with the raised bumps of the drizzled oil. Made from only four ingredients: finely milled durum semolina, water, salt, yeast, and then the addition of olive oil, each package holds 100g of leaves, said to be enough for 4.
Rather than use the classic name of pane carasau, Cherchi, the baker, has chosen to highlight its color and thinness, calling it “pergamena” or parchment. It is different enough to be called by another name from the traditional pane carasau, or bread! Hence the Sardinian descriptor “guttiau.”
I ate a whole package myself due to its delicious flavor and intriguing thin texture Do not use it to scoop. It can be broken into quarters. It is good enough to be eaten by itself. Even the broken pieces are enough to fight over! Very highly recommended.
FARMER TED HOT SAUCE: A homegrown sauce you should try
This hot sauce is the favorite of some well- thought-of Sacramento restaurants. It is produced by Ted Ennis, who works weekends at Corti Brothers wine department. Ted made the sauce and gave it away to friends when he was not making or selling wine. Now that he has gone semi-professional with its production, he has changed the name. Modesty forbids using its previous name!
This hot sauce is made from a Habanero chile base and is hot. Just a little does the trick in using it. I must admit that I like it quite a lot, since at home, a dab gets added to the salad vinaigrette. It really does jolt up a simple salad, enlivening it quite a bit. With the plethora of hot sauces on the market these days, one would think that “hot” is the only flavor. But then there is hot and hot that is not just heat, but also a tingle on the palate. A bit of Farmer Ted in a cold stuffed egg, enlivens the egg creaminess. Since it is to be used as an ingredient, it can make simple flavored dishes sing or spark the conversation between plain-ish flavors in composed dishes. However, Use With Care!
These peanuts are just in time for holiday entertaining. In fact, you may wonder why they were not thought of before. Most people interested in food and tastes have heard about or experienced SICHUAN PEPPER, also spelled Szechwan. It is not a pepper like black or white pepper and it is not a capsicum (chile pepper) but the seed hull of a tree, the Prickly Ash tree, (Zanthoxylum armatum and Z.bungeanum) native to southern China and related to Citrus in the Rutaceae family.
It does not have a “hot” taste, but produces a tingling sensation on the tongue and lips which is its hallmark. So not hot, but tingly, some like to say numbing. The sensation is unique. It has also been classified by Cognitive Neuroscience at University College, London, as having a tinglying frequency of 50 Hertz. This gives rise to the brand name of these peanuts. The molecule hydroxy-alpha-sanshool, an aromatic molecule, is what produces the effect on nerve receptors where skin is very thin: around the mouth and lips.
A young Chinese, YAO ZHAO, founded the company of 50 HERTZ having learned the number of hertz the sensation produces. A native of Chongqing in South China, this became an intriguing business proposition and thus we have 50 Hertz Tingly Peanuts. The peanuts themselves come from Kaifeng in Henan province in eastern China. Kaifeng is famous in history as one of the ancient capitals of China. Peanuts grown there are renown for being big, plump and crunchy. The peanuts are fried with both green and red Sichuan pepper.
These are two kinds of pepper, not different colors of the same. The green (Zanthoxylum armatum) is aromatic and citrusy while the red (Z.bungeanum) is earthy and fullbodied, which is the more usual of the two types. Both produce the tingly sensation but not heat
The 50 Hertz Tingly Peanuts are definitely striking in flavor. The tingly sensation is amazing and somewhat addictive. They will definitely spark up your aperitifs. You will think of peanuts in a completely different way.
Colombe for Easter which will not have arrived for Easter
Due to myriad transport problems for importing anything these days, Corti Brothers’ order of the Easter Colombe from Loison and Cocchi have arrived to us more than a month late. Unfortunately, there was nothing we could do except wait and offer them when they arrive. Thus, they will be late for Easter, but still delicious. They will come in handy during late Spring/Summer entertaining. Perhaps, we may even find unthought of uses for them. Here is our selection: Please note that the prices are not changed or only very slightly from 2021. We are simply absorbing the new, exorbitant shipping costs. We want to sell them for you to enjoy them!
LOISON and COCCHI COLOMBA
Just as panettone means Christmas in Italian culture, the COLOMBA means Easter. This is a baked cake, in a rather odd shape--that of a flying dove, seen from an angle. It is made with a mother sponge, raised dough, to which candied citrus fruit is added, and the top is decorated with either whole almonds from Sicily or hazel5uts from Piemonte. Beside being a festive cake, it also has myriad uses as the base for fresh fruit desserts, where the Colomba acts as the base for almost every kind of sliced and sugared fruit teamed with whipped cream, or whipped cream blended with some Mascarpone, a bit of sugar, and some vanilla. The Colomba, sliced horizontally acts as the pastry base in this case. Used as the base for bread pudding, sublime!
Here are our selections from that most genial baker, Dario Loison. All 1 kg size unless noted otherwise.
We have again added this year that specialty from Loison bakery that was created in 1930s by Dario Loison’s grandfather: it is a type of FILONE, an elongated, baguette shaped loaf with candied fruit and raisins that is similar to, but not the same dough, as panettone. It is a tender, leavened cake with candied fruit and raisins glazed with a hazelnut glaze. It can be sliced and enjoyed or sliced and toasted. Either way, it is delicious and shows what deliciousness can come from thinking outside of the box. Two versions, boxed, 450g
COLOMBA AL BRACHETTO d’ACQUI COCCHI: A new iteration of the classic
Similar to the COCCHI PANETTONE AL VERMOUTH, the geniuses at both Albertengo (the baker) and Cocchi (the winemaker) have created an Easter Colomba made with COCCHI BRACHETTO d’ ACQUI. Much like the very popular Panettone al Vermouth Cocchi, the Colomba is the Easter version of this marriage. The wine is used to macerate the fruit in the cake and then added to the dough.
TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection.
LINGHAM’S SAUCES SINCE 1908
Lingham’s chilli sauce was born in Penang, Malaysia in 1908. From that time it has changed hands only three times, the last time in 2011 into the hands of the Yeoh family. It is found pretty much around the world. Depending on the flavor, it is made with only four ingredients--cane sugar, red chillies, salt, and vinegar--and no preservatives or stabilizers of any sort. More than one hundred years old, the ingredients for Lingham’s recipe have not changed--making it one of the original “natural” food condiments.
I happen to like Lingham’s very much. Unfortunately, it has been a bit difficult to find these last few years. But Corti Brothers now has a good supply, and I am pleased to offer it again to our customers. There are many, perhaps too many, chilli sauces on the market, but none compare with Lingham’s. It’s unusually good and its balanced hot and sweet flavor combines very well with the two added ingredients of ginger and garlic that flavor
two of the Lingham sauces. The Original Chilli Sauce, called Hot Sauce for our market’s label, is delicious with its mouth filling warmth and balanced sweetness which allows food flavors to play with spiciness. There are four types which Corti Brothers offers of Lingham’s: Original Chilli Hot Sauce; the Extra Hot, (which is really not that hot); and then the Garlic and the Ginger versions with their dominant flavor from fresh garlic and ginger. There is one thing one must do with Lingham’s: You must shake it from side to side to mix it before using. I store mine, once opened, in the refrigerator for best quality. If you have not tried Lingham’s before, I suggest you try it now. You’ll probably not be without it again. I cannot imagine corned beef hash without it!
CORTI BROTHERS CANZONIERE CABERNET FRANC RISERVA 2017
This wine is again the product of a friend’s estate in the Colli Euganei, outside of Padova in Italy’s Veneto region. I first tasted the wine in the spring of 2018, when in Italy for CIBUS, its famed food show. The wine had just finished its malolactic fermentation and was in a 500 liter tonneau. I liked its scent and balance and asked if it could be kept out and bottled for Corti Brothers separately, UNBLENDED. My friend agreed and chose another cask of the same wine to be bottled for his winery to be sold only there.
The wine has been bottled as of late spring of 2021 and is a fine example of Cabernet Franc. This variety is one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon and has distinctive Cabernet scent and flavor. It has been grown in Italy since first introduced in the early 1800s into Veneto, and in Italy, is sometimes confused with Carménère. CANZONIERE will make a fine bottle with more age, and you should not try to drink it all up young. Again, there is not much, so decide early on laying some down.
The name CANZONIERE was selected for this wine in keeping with the Petrarch motif of our label since the Canzoniere was the collection of Petrarch’s poetry collected in one work. The Canzoniere is the model on which Renaissance lyric poetry is based. The town where the winery is located is called Arquà Petrarca, where the poet died in 1374. Petrarch is regarded as the father of Humanism.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
OUR SELECTION OF CALIFORNIA Extra Virgin Olive Oils FROM THE LAST HARVEST
This year we have only one California Extra Virgin oil which is under our label. The producer is Pablo Voitzuk. We do have several under Samir Bayraktar’s “Olive Truck” label. Both use the Mori-Tem extraction system, put together by the late Marco Mugelli. This system uses the concept of a vacuum system for malaxating the olive paste and a closed, vacuum system for extraction. The thought was that since olives suffer from being exposed to air, in a vacuum there would be no air (oxidation) and the fresh fragrance and flavor of the olives would be preserved. Pablo Voitzuk uses a system which is fixed while the Olive Truck uses a similar system inside of a 40 foot shipping container which can go to the orchard where the fruit is. This system is newer in technology. Then there is the area where the olives are grown. In this last harvest, most of our selection comes from a grower outside of Woodland, California, and the fruit is hand harvested. It may come to pass that hand harvesting may well become an important factor in oil production. It is definitely a contributing factor to quality oil.
Under the Corti Brothers’ label, we have LECCINO from Pablo Voitzuk. It has been said by Marco Mugelli, the Tuscan oil expert, that Leccino in California is better than the same cultivar in Tuscany. It probably likes it better being in California.! Leccino is a sensitive variety and may just like the dry conditions in California better than the somewhat wetter Tuscan climate. It is a very elegant oil, not too bitter and pungent, but still with that green fruitiness which is typical. This oil won a Gold medal at the Los Angeles tasting.
From Samir Bayraktar’s Olive Truck, we have TAGGIASCA, FRANTOIO, PICUAL and TUSCAN BLEND. The first two are related. Taggiasca from the Italian Riviera is a type of Frantoio, and Frantoio is the most important cultivar in Tuscany. Picual comes from the southern end of Andalucia in Spain and Tuscan blend features Frantoio, having won Best of Show at the 2022 California State Fair and Expo tasting. California’s climate is more like Southern Mediterranean, showing results that cultivars like Picual perform very well in California–making, perhaps, some very fine oils. At the Los Angeles tasting, the Tuscan Blend won a gold medal as did the Taggiasca. The Picual was given a Bronze. All are $25.99 500ml.
GREEK EXTRA VIRGIN OIL: PSYLLAKIS BIOJOY FROM CRETE
Corti Brothers has had this oil several times in the past; it is a wonderful example of Koroneiki oil from the island of Crete in the Greek Archipelago. Emmanuele Psyllakis, who now runs the family estate outside of Chania, has taken over from his father, one of the pillars of quality Greek Oil. Its appellation is KOLYMVARI.
The Psyllakis oil is pungent and aromatic like all very good Koroneiki oil with the pleasant bitterness that marks this cultivar and its aromatic, leafy character. It is also grown in California and it is just these characteristics which make the cultivar so useful here where it “spices up” the more bland oil from intensely planted Arbequina. If you want to see what really fine Greek extra virgin oil is like, here is your opportunity.
MARMELLATA DEI CINQUE AGRUMI Five Citrus Marmalade 2022--Just made
Once again, the five citrus varieties grown in my back yard, have been transformed into marmalade by The Good Stuff in Sacramento. These five citrus varieties are Bergamot, Citron, Blood Orange, Meyer Lemon and Chinotto. Every production is slightly different due to the amount of fruit the trees produce, and it is stated on the label in order of predominance. Usually Chinotto is the last since there is so little of it.
This year, 2022, production is a little larger than in previous years, but not all that big. If you enjoy very fine citrus marmalade, I would suggest you let us know right away. This will sell out quickly to its admirers.
POLINKA FRUIT COMPOTES FROM ARMENIA: The drink with fruit in it.
The term “compote” means different things to different people. To some, it is a cooked fruit. To others, in Eastern Europe, Armenians in particular, it means a fruit based drink, a water and fruit drink where the fruit is cooked with water, then other fresh fruit pieces are added to the liquid to give more flavor. We tried POLINKA COMPOTE, a new Armenian “Compote” and it is really delicious. Especially attractive are the Quince, Sour Cherry, and the Apricot and Sour Cherry blend. These are to be served very chilled and can be doctored with alcohol such as vodka or white rum to make a cocktail drink, or served very well chilled, with a splash of fizzy water, they can be enjoyed just as they are. Part of the pleasure of the compote is enjoying the liquid with some of the fruit in the bottle. The fresh fruit added to the bottle gives the compotes added flavor and zip. (Be careful with the cherries: They have pits!) With warm weather here,5these should make a welcome distraction from “sodas.” The bottles are all liter size and once opened will disappear very quickly. They cost $4.99 each liter bottle.
CORTI BROTHERS Russian River Valley PINOT NOIR 2020, BAKER FAMILY WINES
In the 2020 vintage, Corti Brothers again has a bottling of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from Baker Family wines. The winemaker, Chik Brenneman, business partner with Dusty Baker–yes, that Dusty Baker--has once again produced a truly lovely example of the variety that will please Pinot Noir fans. It has a luminescent, pretty color, just the right tonality for Pinot, a lovely Pinot aroma and then a decisive Pinot flavor without a lot of wood mucking it up. It is a wine that will give pleasure now and even more with 4-5 years more bottle age. This vintage we also have magnums which will age even better. There is more than in 2019, but not a lot more. Please do not dilly-dally!
CORTI BROTHERS Russian River Valley PINOT NOIR 2020 13.5% $29.99 750 ml (#5535) $323.00 case/12 (#5535C) $69.99 magnum (#5536) $377.00 case /6 (#5536C)
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A BRAND NEW CONCEPT FOR A PRODUCT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT
Since 1899, the Italian family firm of MUTTI in Parma has produced tomato products exclusively. They have been innovators. In 1951, they put the first tomato paste into a tube. Now, in 2021, they packaged the first tomato passata (tomato puree to us) from a mobile plant directly in the tomato field. The result is a splendid, thick, beautifully colored “passata” made in the field “Sul Campo.” But this is not your ordinary tomato puree!
This new product is limited in supply right now, but since it has the hallmarks of a successful idea, there will be more with the 2022 harvest. The “Instafactory” as Mutti calls the new facility, eliminates the time lapse between harvesting the tomatoes and processing them. They can be harvested at optimal ripeness and transformed almost immediately into this fragrant, thick passata. When I was shown the sample bottle, I decided to taste it first just out of the bottle. To my surprise it is was a delicious, very smooth, yet tasty product that reminded me of a local product no longer made in Sacramento. It was very much like the original Sacramento Brand Tomato Juice that used to be made at the Bercut-Richards plant in North Sacramento. The motto of the brand was: “So think it plops.” Just showing it around in the store, we almost finished the 19 ounce bottle. It is delicious as a beverage made with only fresh, ripe tomatoes and Mediterranean sea salt. Using vodka or blanco Tequila, it would make a splendid drink since it is thick enough not to become watery. If you wanted it thinner in consistency, just thin with a bit of water.
Used as a sauce, it can be put on ravioli or pasta without heating it, just putting it into a warmed bowl and adding the freshly drained pasta for the clean, fresh flavor of tomato.
The tomato variety is a new hybrid called ROSSORO, a round tomato, grown in the Parma area, and processed with innovative, all stainless steel equipment. From field to processing to bottling almost simultaneously. There is no oil, just tomato; no spices, just salt and tomato. It takes 2 kilos of fresh tomatoes to make 1 kilo of Passata.
For this first go around we will not have a large stock, but you should at least taste the product. This just may be the new world of tomato.
Given the problems and difficulties of these past two years, it seems that we need a bit of respite. With the holidays, perhaps we will be able to enjoy them, lift a glass in merriment, and enjoy ourselves. Corti Brothers wishes all of our customers a joy filled season and a better New Year.
Darrell Corti
SPINOSI PASTA ALL’UOVO (Egg pasta to us)
SPINOSI brand of egg based pasta is possibly the best made in Italy. According to a wine merchant friend from Milano, it is “better than homemade.” In Italy a minimum of eggs in making egg pasta is 4 whole eggs per kilo of flour. The Spinosi egg pastas are made with 10 eggs per kilo of flour. The eggs are cracked by hand one by one; no water is added to the mix; and then with high quality Italian durum semolina flour, the mix is slowly kneaded and cut with bronze dies. The then cut pasta is slowly dried and packaged. Spinosi Pasta has been made since 1933 in Campofilone, a small city in Italy’s eastern seaboard region of the MARCHE, where egg pasta making is a tradition which dates back to the 1400s. This pasta was called “maccheroni fini fini.” Its golden yellow color is given by the intense, almost red colored egg yolks produced by chickens raised cage free and fed a diet with sunflower seeds and other high chlorophyl feed that produces deep colored egg yolks.
Such a high amount of egg content also gives Spinosi pasta a real toothsome structure so that you can taste the almost firm texture of egg based pasta dough when cooked. This toothsome quality is one of its remarkable characteristics. The Spinosi boxes say on them that the producer is “The artisan of pasta as if home made.”
All the long cuts of pasta are in 8.8oz boxes layered on two sheets of white paper. This is a very good measure since only one sheet of pasta is needed for up to four persons as a first course or 2 or 3 dinners as a main course.
Spinosi Pasta long cuts and Strozzapretti are $9.99 the box, Nero di seppia is $11.49 the box, and Gluten free is $12.99 the box.
CORTI BROTHERS SPICED WHITE FIGS from The Good Stuff
Last year Corti Brothers introduced Spiced Figs whose recipe came from Dick Graff of Chalone Vineyard. This year we had the same recipe made using white figs rather than black just to see how they would turn out. The figs were grown again on the fig farm of Harvey Correia just outside of Rio Vista in the Sacramento Delta region. Janet Macdonald of The Good Stuff again did the production following the original recipe.
Interestingly, the figs are slightly more firm than the black figs and are actually less sweet tasting than the black from last year. They are very aromatic and have a delicate fig flavor, reminiscent of Sémillon wine. They are meant to be sweet, but would also fit into a menu where you need a not too sweet condiment for ham and the like. There is not much to be had. Delicious with good vanilla ice cream. LIMIT: 6 jars per order.
CORTI BROTHERS RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIR 2020, Baker Family Wines
Once again we have a Pinot Noir from Russian River produced at Dusty Baker’s West Sacramento winery. (Yes, that Dusty Baker!) The winemaker is Chik Brenneman, the now retired winemaker from UC Davis’s winery. The vineyard is in Russian River Valley, on Mark West Station Road, and the Moorehead Reserve refers to a couple–friends of Dusty Baker and Hank Aaron–who originally bought the grapes for this wine.
The clones in the vineyard are on the label: They are 667, 115, and Pommard. It is an interesting mix of old California and newish Burgundy. The alcohol for 2020, a distinctly different vintage from the 2019, now sold out, is 13.5% with a more elegant character to the wine. It still has that “cherry” character which I find in Russian River Pinot and a more elegant, fruity flavor than the previous year. I like this wine a great deal and hence its early bottling. Everything about this vintage is elegant and more-ish. Question is: When do you stop enjoying it?
Chik brought the sample to show me and I again immediately said yes to his offer. There is slightly more than in 2019 and this year also, magnums. However, there isn’t that much more and the time to take Pinots is when they are a-passing! Don’t dawdle!
CORTI BROTHERS RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIR 2020 13.5%
$29.99 750ml (#5411) $323/cs/12 (#5411C)
$69.99 1.5L (#5412) 377.00 cs/6 (#5412C)
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ARDOINO OILS FROM LIGURIA: Vall’Aurea and the new Drupa Aurea
DRUPA AUREA is a Pitted Olive olive oil. This means that the fruit is pitted before its crushing and extracting the oil. This was a technology used in ancient times to make ceremonial oil and with the use of a fruit pitter, has come back into being used for larger production. A question in using this technology is that the olives should be rather ripe to be able to extract the pit. Green fruit is difficult to pit. It is made from ripe Taggiasca olives.
There is material in the kernel of the olive pit which causes a degradation of antioxidants when the pit is crushed. Here this is avoided and the characteristic of pitted olive oil is that it is very delicate in flavor due to fruit ripeness but has high levels of polyphenols. It is a light fruity oil with aromatic herbal notes to its aroma. It is a perfect oil for those palates enjoying delicate oil, without the pungency and bitterness normally found with green fruit oils. This is oil for delicate dishes and where oil should be an unction rather than a flavor.
VALL’AUREA is the oil that made NANNI ARDOINO famous in Italy for his Ligurian oil. It is the original gold foil wrapped bottle which has created many imitators. We have imported this oil since 1980 and it has always been well loved by its considerable fans. This is the normal oil made from ripe Taggiasca olive grown in the valleys to the north of Oneglia on the western or Ponente side of Liguria. This also is a light fruity oil, perfect for dressing fish dishes, making pesto and using on dishes where an intense oil would stand out too much.
PLEASE NOTE ~ NOTA BENE Our panettone shipment from Italy was 6 weeks late due to the west coast port crisis. This will effect our ability to process orders to be delivered in time for Christmas. We expect that orders normally processed in 48 hours may take 3-5 days plus 2-4 days transit time west coast, and 6-7 days east coast.
PANETTONE is the holiday bread for Italians. It is celebrated as the Christmas treat and has become necessary for a traditional celebration. Here are our selections for this Holiday Season.
Let’s begin with the new one:
COCCHI PANETTONE AL VERMOUTH di TORINO. This is a special panettone from a unique recipe created by Vermouth Cocchi and Albertengo, a noted Piemontese baker. The panettone is aromatized with the Vermouth di Torino Cocchi, where the candied fruit and raisins are macerated in vermouth and then vermouth is added to the dough. The dough is made from a mother sponge for rising, with butter, pastured eggs, candied fruit, and vermouth. Cocchi panettone is unique.
Why is it different? The addition of vermouth to the dough and the fruit macerated in vermouth give a very special scented and rather exotic character to everything. Vermouth is not considered a dessert wine as such, and for this reason was tried as an ingredient in panettone. The vermouth just makes the panettone slightly less sugary and the herbal/spice character adds a special touch to panettone’s already complex flavor. This should appeal very much to customers not enjoying very sugary desserts with an aromatic and less sugary wine accompaniment.
To go with the Panettone al Vermouth, we offer three Vermouth di Torino from Cocchi: Vermouth di Torino; Dopo Teatro Vermouth Amaro, and the exclusive Cocchi Venaria Reale Riserva, where artemisia and other herbs used for this vermouth come from the gardens of the Royal Hunting Palace (Venaria Reale) outside of Torino.
COCCHI VERMOUTH di TORINO 16% $18.99 750 ml (#5416) $205.00 case/12 (#5416C) Made from Piemontese muscat base with local herbs. The first of the renewed style “di Torino” vermouths.
COCCHI DOPO TEATRO VERMOUTH AMARO 16% $21.79 500ml (#5417) $235.00 case/12 (#5417C) The same Cocchi style, slightly more bitter with bittering herbs and less sweet than the original. For after dinner or theater.
COCCHI VENARIA REALE 18% $89.99 500ml (#5418) $485.00 cs/6 (#5418C) Limited production: 1891 bottles. Some ingredients come from the gardens of Venaria Reale, the largest palace complex in Italy. Amber colored without caramel; rich with Piemontese mint, and bottle aged for at least six months. Recommended for aged bourbon or rye, or with a lemon twist and ice as an aperitif or alone as an after dinner drink. Vermouth ages well in bottle. Cellar some of this Venaria Reale Riserva while you can.
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PANETTONE LOISON: All are in kilo size unless noted.
VENEZIANA is less buttery and fluffy in texture than panettone, spiced reflecting Venice’s long tradition on the Spice Road. Panettone is Milano, and Veneziana is, well, Venice.
LOISON FILONE: Filone is a sweet bread similar to panettone, but in a loaf shape. Its name FILONE is also used for the “baguette shape” of bread. Filone comes from the traditional “panfrutto” created by Dario Loison’s father. Filone are all 450g in size. Perfect for slicing and toasting in the morning or as a snack in the afternoon.
KAMPOT PEPPER is produced only in Cambodia. At one time, in the early 20th century in France, it was synonymous with pepper. It is also the first internationally recognized foodstuff from Cambodia with an appellation control. Kampot pepper is available in several different styles depending on the ripeness of the berries picked from the vine producing Piper nigrum. The different styles are due to different handling and different ripening times of the fruit. Kampot pepper is also the only pepper which has many variations from the same fruit. It also makes a lovely gift during the holiday season since it will always get used. It is unique and you should know about it.
LA PLANTATION KAMPOT PEPPER are all packed in 50g plastic bags.
ACETO BALSAMICO TRADIZIONALE, the only “true” Balsamic vinegar, is a marvelous item for holiday giving. It is rare and expensive. It is also a gift that makes an impression. When thinking about what to get food loving friends, please consider Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale. Your friends will remember it for a long time!
Here are the ages we have of this grape must only product, produced through concentration and time, sometimes a very long time. CASTELLO DI VERGNANO is a producer, a family operation, which we have imported since 1982. We have two presentations: The one called PASSIONE is the bottling done by the estate. It cannot be called ABT. It has to be called “condimento,” a condiment. The other presentation is that of the Consorzio, the controlling entity which authenticates its bottlings of vinegar presented by a producer. In this instance, both Passione and the Consorzio bottlings are the same quality from this estate. The difference is in the authentication. The age dates refer to an approximate age. What is important is the age of the barrels the vinegar is aged in. All of the production is sold in the same size container, clear glass bottles holding 100 ml or about 3 oz. and boxed.
The vinegar called MASTRO ACETAIO –Master vinegar maker-is three year old boiled down must with old wine vinegar added. It is a splendid daily condiment of already blended young ABT and normal vinegar.
A NEW CONCEPT FOR HOLIDAY ENTERTAINING: BLÜM ALMONDS FROM CHICO
Hoping to help you with holiday planning, I would like to introduce to you a new concept–a novel way with fresh almonds that takes about twelve (12) minutes to do. The CHICO NUT COMPANY, in business for 45 years selling internationally both California almonds and walnuts, has just introduced a new concept of in home roasting of almonds to get the freshest and most flavorful nut to your holiday snack table. BLÜM, (pronounced Bloom) is a pack holding more or less six servings of raw almonds, about 168 of them, a packet of almond oil and a packet of seasonings to be added to the plastic container with the nuts, shaken with the oil first, then the seasonings, put in the microwave, heated according to the package, shaken twice and left to rest so that the nuts are not blistering hot. It takes three minutes in the microwave and if you want to do in the oven, then 8 minutes. Use a lined sheet pan and oven temperature of 350 degrees for about eight minutes, shaking often. Let cool. But the concept is geared to a microwave.
Fresh roasting the almonds produces a different, unique flavor. The seasonings are low in sugar and salt and have no preservatives. The almonds varieties Chico Nut uses in the packs are a selection of which they think is the best for that harvest. The most widely planted cultivars in California are: Nonpareil, Carmel, Price, Fritz, Monterey, Padre, Butte, and Mission. For 2021, the owner of Chico Nut selected Nonpareil. The almond oil is produced by a noted nut oil extraction company here in California and produces a clean, non oily coating for the almonds.
There are five different flavors available in the BLÜM packs with their very attractive covers. The price of each is $6.99 per 6 +oz. container. The container is microwavable and recyclable. The flavors are:
They are wonderful warm, but you might find them even better the next day. Try them and see!
WINES FOR HOLIDAY DESSERTS
The holidays are times for relaxing and enjoying once a year treats like Plum Pudding, Mincemeat Pie, and the like. Even simple ice cream can be enhanced with a splendid dessert wine that is warming, scented and meant to be drunk in sips rather than gulps. Here are several for this year.
ALL SAINTS ESTATE RUTHERGLEN MUSCAT
This is a muscat wine made in Australia’s Rutherglen area, north of Melbourne, in Victoria state. Rutherglen Muscat is one of Australia’s greatest wines. It is made from a specific Muscat clone, in a blending system where young wines are blended with old and very old wines. Rutherglen muscats are unique. All Saints is one of a half dozen or so famous estates making what is recognized as superb muscat. This one is on the younger end of the scale, but shows exactly what this wine is like. Its price is really not realistic, but is an attempt to get you to try this wine wonder. If no one drinks them, they will disappear!
RUTHERGLEN MUSCAT 17% $11.99 375ml (#5469)
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HARRINGTON ANGELICA 2017
Harrington is a now closed winery. Before it closed we bought several of its delicious wines. Its Angelica, is made as a classic California Angelica–grape juice just as fermentation begins, fortified with brandy and then left to age. In the classic form it was never drunk as a very old wine, but as a grapey, fruity flavored wine that combines the taste of grape juice and spirit. The Harrington is ruddy in color, with a scented, aromatic aroma and a balanced sweetness. It ages very well and since not many California producers are making Angelica today, it has become a relic of California’s early wine history. It is also a wine for dried fruits and nuts, adding a special fresh character to this combination. If you have not experienced Angelica, here is your chance.
HARRINGTON ANGELICA 2017 17.5% $24.99 375 ml (#5470)
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HARBOR WINERY “OLOROSO” WHITE WINE: Criadera and Solera
These two California white wines formed a unity of a sherry-styled wine that Charles Myers of Harbor Winery made for his own delectation. They were originally 17 barrels of wine that he never sold. He wanted to drink it. When his winery was closed at his death, Corti Brothers bought the wine and it was bottled. The Solera barrels were labeled such and the Criadera barrels were the ones used to feed the solera barrels. They were essentially two different styles of the same wine. Both dry, without the noticeable effect of “flor” which they initially had, and have the same alcohol of 22.4% which rose through evaporation. They were never fortified, but merely fermented to about 16%, then aged. This evaporation, called “the angels share,” has given the wines its aged sherry- like character. The name--“oloroso” refers to their scented quality--that is the meaning of the Spanish word. They are completely Californian in taste and style. But difficult to name using only English. They are unique.
I should like to point out that they fit a bill where one does not want a sweet wine, but an aged one for use as an aperitif or with soups. This is how the Oloroso Criadera should be used. The Oloroso Solera is a very good example of a dry framed wine, with lots of extract that makes it full bodied and rich, almost sweet.
Both are the same price: $38.99 750ml. Oloroso Criadera (#5471) Oloroso Solera (#5472)
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TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection. Due to the west coast port crisis, our ability to process orders to be delivered in time for Christmas has been effected. We expect that orders normally processed in 48 hours may take 3-5 days plus 2-4 days transit time west coast, and 6-7 days east coast.
ZERO INFINITO- Pojer & Sandri: A new grape variety, and a unique “natural” sparkling wine.
Much has been written and discussed about “natural wines.” I am not a fan of this style of wine, since most wine is natural, and generally the proponents of these wines are just looking at making themselves special. But my friends at Pojer e Sandri in the Trentino, in Italy’s north central area have gone one further. They not only make a “natural” wine, no yeast or sulfites, no fining or filtration agents, no pesticides in the vineyard and no other vineyards close by theirs and make it a sparkling wine, a “pet-nat,” called ZERO INFINITO. This wine is grown in an part of Italy where their vineyard is the only vineyard in the area–if such a thing could be imagined in Italy. It is in the Alta Val di Cembra. But to do this they had recourse to a completely different grape variety: SOLARIS, which was created in 1975, the year Pojer e Sandri began.
Solaris is a variety that is Vitis vinifera. Created in 1975, it is allowed to be grown in the European Union and protected as a varietal since 2001. It is a variety which was created to be disease resistant to fungal diseases, is also cold hardy, and an early ripener. Its parentage is convoluted.
Created by Norbert Becker who crossed Merzling (Seyve-Villard 5276, an early French-American hybrid) with Riesling x Pinot gris) as the mother vine and another cross (Zarya Severa x Muscat Ottonel) as the father vine. It has enormous leaves, they are as big as a dinner plate and are almost round in shape. Since it doesn’t need fungicides, it is grown completely naturally. The resulting wine is then not treated with sulphur in any way, its yeast is natural, it is bottled with its residual sugar and yeast to make it sparkle and is not disgorged. It is a juicy, fresh wine, lightly aromatic, with a floral and Golden Delicious apple tone with peach and tropical fruit character. The producers recommend serving it as an aperitif or with cold cuts.
To serve the wine clear, you must decant it, otherwise you will have a cloudy wine since all of its spent yeast cells are still with the wine. (It was only in middle of the 1800s that Madame Clicquot perfected how to remove the dead yeast cells in Champagne. Up to that time, all Champagne was cloudy and to serve it clear, the wine had to be decanted.) You can serve Zero Infinito cloudy in the “traditional” style by not decanting it, but then you miss the pretty golden color the wine has. It is the only completely untouched wine Corti Brothers offers and you should try it. Making this kind of wine takes a lot of work and dedication plus a new grape variety which is naturally disease resistant. This is the new world of wine from a new variety without any outside intervention.
POJER e SANDRI ZERO INFINITO 12% $26.99 750ml (#5473) $145.00 case/6 (#5473C)
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Norwegian Superior salted codfish $19.99 (skin and bones) (#5475) Random weight. Avg. wt. 3 lbs
Baccalà, salted codfish, Canadian $17.99 (skinless, boneless) (#5476) Random weight. Avg. wt. 1.5 lbs
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One season has come and gone and another awaits. Here are some interesting items which you might enjoy. Please remember that with current situations with shipping and such, it may be awhile before we see some calm business. But it will return. Darrell Corti
I would like to offer some Corti Brothers labeled wines from different regions and areas. They are interesting, fine wines, and very well priced. These wines remind us wine is a drink, not an art object.
The RIME ROSSO is a soft wine composed of merlot and cabernet sauvignon from the Colli Euganei, just outside of Venice in Italy’s Veneto region. This blend was then enhanced with about 10% of the press wine of the two varieties with the addition of 10% carm̀énère. (In this part of Italy, carménère is sometimes called cabernet franc, but it is carménère.) The wine we offer is “grosso modo” 75% merlot, 17% cabernet sauvignon, and 8% carménère, all said and done. It is a pretty wine that should give great satisfaction and more delight with bottle age. It was bottled this past spring.
The RIME BIANCO is the same wine as the first lot bottling except that it had a year’s more aging in stainless steel while waiting for bottling. Still all 2019 vintage, just bottled, it is rounder and fleshier than the first bottling and is comprised of the same varieties as previous which are: chardonnay, pinot blanc, sauvignon blanc, Incrocio Manzoni (a cross of schiava and white riesling), and moscato bianco. These are all varieties cultivated in the estate vineyards. It is also a white wine which will take several more years of bottle age. That is, if you can keep your hands off it.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
CORTI BROTHERS RUSSIAN RIVER PINOT NOIR 2019, Baker Family Wines
This is a pinot noir produced at Dusty Baker’s West Sacramento winery. (Yes, that Dusty Baker!) The winemaker is the now retired winemaker of the UC Davis winery. The vineyard is in the Russian River Valley, on Mark West Station Road, and the Moorehead Reserve refers to a couple--friends of Dusty Baker and Hank Aaron--who originally bought the grapes for this wine.
Chik Brenneman, the winemaker, brought a sample for me to taste. Finding it a very good example of Russian River fruit, I immediately said “yes” to his offer. There is not a lot of it, so don’t dawdle!
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
RAMBLE Billy D. Wines taglio b barbera 2020
This is a new bottling from a winery with longtime ties to Corti Brothers. It is owned by Bill Davies, the eldest son of Jack and Jamie Davies of Schramsberg. I have known Bill since he was a child, and Corti Brothers was the first customer of his parent’s winery. In keeping with this tradition, we are the first customer to have a private labeled wine bottled by Bill Davies’ Ramble winery.
The name “taglio b barbera” is a 2020 vintage, old vine, dry farmed Barbera from Mendocino County. Bill had brought me all of his 2020 wines to taste, and in the series of wines there was a delicious Barbera. Alongside it was an equally delicious, though fuller in body, Carignan press wine. I asked if they could be blended. They were. Hence, the word “taglio” or blend in Italian. The b is for Barbera. The Barbera gained weight and the Carignan fruitiness. I think it is a lovely example of Barbera, meant to be a juicy, flavorful, fruity example.
The label, which is the RAMBLE label, has two vine leaves on it. One for barbera, the other carignan. Can you tell which one is which? No prizes are given, It’s just an interesting exercise!
RAMBLE Billy D Wines taglio b barbera 2020 12.5% $24.99 750ml (#5303) $269.00 cs/12 (#5303C)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
Corti Brothers AMADOR Red and Yellow Barrel GIN
This gin is a newly discovered lost lot of a bottling of a London Dry Gin that had been aged in one of the freshly dumped Misson del Sol barrels which we bought from the now closed Harbor Winery. For unknown reasons, the head of the barrel had been painted at some time with red and yellow paint, hence its name. When the gin was bottled and sent to the distributor--we sold out of the bottling--the distributor “lost” some cases in his warehouse. When they showed up on a recent inventory, I saw them listed and purchased them. What was lost has been found! There are only 30-6 bottle cases of this gin, which is not a gin--and--tonic gin, but a gin you could make a lovely riff of a Manhattan using it instead of whisky. It is particularly good with Cocchi Vermouth di Torino. You should try it with the Cocchi Riserva Reale bottling. It would also be perfect for making a Martinez cocktail instead of using Old Tom gin. Or if you really enjoy gin, try some served cold from the freezer with a squeeze of lime and some rocks rather than the normal Martini. It takes to bitters very well, and is a gin you can play with.
Bottled at 90 proof, Amador Gin has an amber color with a light russet tone. There is a light juniper scent, a hint of coriander seed and wood nuttiness. The light wood nuttiness, with the soft juniper attack, gives a delicate creamy character with a mouth filling flavor and a soft end. Complexity is given by a delicate sweetness that rounds out the gin’s flavor. We will never be able to make this gin again.
Corti Brothers AMADOR Red and Yellow Barrel GIN 45% $39.99 750ml (#5304) $215.00 cs/6 (#5304C)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
Corti Brothers Selection Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Two from Italy and Two from Spain
Again in 2021, we have selected Early Harvest oils from MillPress, an importer/bottler of very high quality oil in Pennsylvania. Two are from Italy, and two from Spain. We buy these oils because they are very high quality and can be bottled upon demand, giving them a longer shelf life for our customers. (Shelf life in oil is from bottling, not production.)
The two Spanish oils Hojiblanca and Arbequina, are produced--one grown and produced--under the care of Marino Uceda and his daughter Mercedes. Marino Uceda is probably the most important oil technician in Spain. The Hojiblanca oil we offer is from a grove created, planted, and harvested at Antequera, near Málaga, and milled under his direct supervision. The property belongs to his wife and her brothers. Not much more needs to be said about its provenance.
The variety Hojiblanca (oh-he-blanka) is very famous in Spain’s central area, not widely planted in the south. It gives a splendid oil, with a delicate flavor and balanced bitterness and pungency. It is a very classy cultivar, especially when harvested early as is ours. Under Marino Uceda’s watchful eye, everything is done properly and with care, producing a wonderful oil for all uses. Having it properly stored and bottled upon demand, provides another quality parameter and allows us to sell this oil at a reasonable price to the consumer, assuring its maximum quality. It also helps that the owner/miller of the mill that works the olives is the brother-in-law of the man who owns MillPress.
The second Spanish oil is a pure Arbequina, from a grove selected by Mercedes Uceda Maza, from Ecija, near Sevilla. It is a new grove, with medium intensive spacing and produces under the watchful eye of Mercedes, a very typical, fruity, yet light style oil, typical of the variety. (Arbequina, in its intensive planting, is probably the most cultivated variety now in California.) This is not an intensive planting, and the production is more like that of traditional Arbequina in northern Spain. The fruit is milled at the same facility as the Hojiblanca. Early Harvest is important for Arbequina, since it maintains variety fruitiness which tends to become flat when riper.
(Full disclosure: Both Marino Uceda and his daughter Mercedes are tasters at the Los Angeles International Olive Oil Competition of which I am the Chairman.)
Our two Italian oils come from Puglia. They are from two different varieties: Peranzana and Ogliarola garganica, both typical of the area of Canossa di Puglia and the Tavoliere, and are from the Sabino Leone mill.
The Ogliarola (oh-lee-ah-roll-a) is from trees that are 450 years old. Technically, it is Ogliarola garganica, since it comes from the Gargano and is a landrace of that variety.
Peranzana is a dual purpose variety, making both a fine oil and lovely olives for eating. (It should be planted in California since it has a constant production, not cyclical, as most olive varieties.) The variety is said to have been imported to Puglia by the Prince Raimondo Sangro di San Severo (1710-1771) who brought it from Provence in France, hence its distorted name--Provenzana > Peranzana. The Prince, himself, is worth looking up in Wikipedia! The Peranzana is from a new planting from 1999.
Both oils have noted flavor characteristics and personalities. They are both medium fruity oils: the Peranzana, with an artichoke leaf/tomato leaf scent and a fresh artichoke heart flavor. Its bitterness and pungency are balanced. The l Ogliarola has an herbal character, with a yellow apple tone, followed through in its flavor. Very well balanced, it is not your typical Pugliese style, such as Coratina.
Our Corti Brothers oils are all $19.99 the 750ml bottle. They will hold well through this fall and winter and even further, and should give great satisfaction A mixed case or 3 bottles each of the four varieties will give you a fine lesson in what high quality extra virgin olive oil is.
GREEN SALT–A new healthy salt alternative from a plant
In the food world there are lots of different salts. Salt is a necessary element for life. But too much salt is a problem. Perhaps GREEN SALT, may change the equation. GREEN SALT is not a salt infused with things. It is the real thing dehydrated.
GREEN SALT is not colored with another product or the addition of something to basic salt. It is made from the naturally dehydrated halophyte plant called SALICORNIA or SAMPHIRE, which grows in salty water. It is a maritime plant of which there are several types and families, some belonging to the amaranth family, which includes beets, sugar beets, spinach and chard. Salicornia grows well at twice the salinity of sea water.
Organically grown Salicornia is produced in Ensenada, Baja California, and sun dehydrated by the Noriega family who have grown Salicornia for some 20 years. The plant looks very similar to a succulent and is historically eaten in Europe and Asia. There is a great tradition of samphire in Britain, where the plant was eaten both as a vegetable and as a pickle. GREEN SALT is salty enough to use in place of table salt, though substantially lower in sodium. It has 50% less sodium than salt. It does contain iodine, found in sea salt. This is not your pasta water cooking salt, but a salt to be added to what you have cooked to give it a salt flavor. Salt makes food tasty. Green Salt also gives a green color to food to which it is added.
The history of Salicornia is interesting. Also called Glasswort, due to its use in early soda glass production, it is used in bread and biscuit making, traditional in parts of English speaking lands, and around the Mediterranean. As a halophyte plant, it is also important in reclaiming marshy, salt water tidal lands producing a plant that is good for eating raw in salads, cooked as a vegetable, and now dehydrated as “SALT.”
If you use a salt cellar at table as I do, an interesting use is to have two: one for regular white salt of the type you like and another for GREEN SALT. You need a salt spoon to sprinkle it on dishes, and the combination of the green color and the salt taste is very unusual. It is to be used as a “finishing” salt on dishes rather than using it for salting a cooking dish. The green color of the salt lends a greenish tinge to whatever is salted with GREEN SALT. If used as a condiment and for reasons where you want to lower your salt intake, yet have the flavor force, you should try GREEN SALT. It is not a salt substitute like others which contain potassium, but is just regular salt, with lower salinity. It is green in color and powdery, not granular. Once one becomes accustomed to this fact, your dishes will taste the same, but might look slightly different. Store cool, dry, and at room temperature.
MARIO FONGO GRISSINI from Rocchetta Tanaro in Italy’s Piemonte
Yes, I know, I wrote about grissini in the Spring newsletter. These are different from the Spring ones. They are from the town where Giacomo Bologna created his Barbera, Rocchetta Tanaro. Mario Fongo uses the name of “Il Panatè” which in Piemontese dialect means “the baker.” The firm started in 1945.
The grissini which we offer are of two types: one for eating with fatty cold meats, since they are made with less oil (1%) and accompany richly flavored meats like salame, coppa, prosciutto. These are the FONGO Grissini stirati a mano H2O. They are equally good by themselves, but serve this purpose as an accompaniment to other things. Having less oil than the other style and due to the dough’s lengthy rising, they have a delicate, crunchy body. Both styles of grissini are 13-13 ½ inches long, the length of the baker’s forearm, which is the measure of stretching them. Both are made with “00" Italian flour and extra virgin olive oil.
The other grissini are the FONGO Grissini Classici stirati a mano with extra virgin olive oil (5%) and the addition of some fresh lard to give them a slightly lighter body and more friability. These can be eaten alone, just as a snack. But they do contain some lard, which is traditional. It renders them more crispy and lighter in texture.
The terms “Stirati a mano” simply means that they have been hand pulled or hand worked to give the grissini their characteristic long, pointed shape. Both styles of grissini come in a clear plastic tray that is about 15 inches long. Both are dusted with fine semolina which gives a slightly dusty character to each piece and prevents them from sticking together when baking.
Due to their length, shipping is a question. Please recognize that there may be breakage in shipping. We will try our utmost to avoid breakage, but please remember that some may occur, It only means that the pieces may be a bit smaller, but equally tasty.
Both are delicious. It is up to you to chose which you prefer. But, I bet you cannot eat just one!
TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection.
LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORT: COCKBURN 2012 LBV (Preparing for Fall)
COCKBURN, (Pronounced Coh-burn) is a noted Port shipper whose fame made it an almost household name in Britain and which celebrated its bi-centenary as a Port shipper in 2015. It also declared a vintage in 2015. But it is also a house which has been battered from pillar to post and is now in the safe harbor of the Symington group of shipping firms, and the wines are back in the noted Cockburn style.
We made a purchase a while ago of Cockburn LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE ( LBV) 2012 and can offer it at a spectacular price now for your drinking this fall and winter and for keeping a few bottles just to see how they develop. 2012 was not declared as a vintage as was 2011, but there is always some very good wine that gets made in every vintage and this lot of 2012 represents just this: a lovely wine made as an LBV, which is the term used for wines that are from a single vintage, aged six years in wood before bottling, which date must be on the label, and are shipped, mainly ready to drink, but with keeping power.
Cockburn has been famous as a house for their delicate, yet fragrant body, and drier finish to its wines, than some other houses. This is called the “House Style.” It is also what represents a port shipper’s stock in trade. The house style is what gives a customer of the that house, or brand if you like, security that the wines will have a certain flavor profile and style that, when you are accustomed to them, become very recognizable. (This is also how you become a tasting expert: being able to remember taste characteristics.)
Port shippers and Champagne houses are probably the greatest examples of how to make a flavor. The tasters in both instances work hard to find wines that they have produced that exhibit the characteristics that they want in the finished blend. After being battered in the market place with perhaps the wrong partners, it is wonderful to see this noble house back in form again. Port Season is a-coming!
It was Ernest Cockburn, the last Cockburn in the firm, who famously wrote the line: “The first duty of Port is to be red.”
COCKBURN LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE (LBV) 2012 $21.99 750 ml (#5319) $118.00 cs/6 (#5319C)
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For a printable version of our Newsletter, click the link below.
Happy Spring to all our customers. It appears we are improving!
Darrell Corti
Our apologies for the delay in publishing our Spring Newsletter. Our container from Italy containing the Easter Colomba and Veneziana cakes experienced a 26 day delay due to severe west coast port congestion. They were scheduled to arrive at the beginning of March. It has finally arrived and they are now in stock.
LOISON and COCCHI COLOMBA
Just as panettone means Christmas in Italian culture, the COLOMBA means Easter. This is a baked cake, in a rather odd shape, that of a flying dove, seen from an angle. It is made with a mother sponge, raised dough, to which candied citrus fruit is added, and the top is decorated with either whole almonds from Sicily or hazelnuts from Piemonte. Beside being a festive cake, it also has myriad uses after Easter as the base for fresh fruit desserts, where the Colomba acts as the base for almost every kind of sliced and sugared fruit teamed with whipped cream, or whipped cream blended with some Mascarpone, a bit of sugar, and some vanilla. The Colomba, sliced horizontally acts as the pastry base in this case.
Here are our selections from that most genial baker, Dario Loison.
We have added this year a specialty from Loison bakery that was created in 1930s by Dario Loison’s grandfather: it is a type of FILONE, an elongated, baguette shaped loaf with candied fruit and raisins that is similar to, but not the same dough, as panettone. It is a soft, leavened cake with candied fruit and raisins glazed with a hazelnut glaze. It can be sliced and enjoyed or sliced and toasted. Either way, it is delicious and shows what deliciousness can come from thinking outside of the box. Four versions, all boxed, 450g
COLOMBA AL BRACHETTO d’ACQUI COCCHI: A new iteration of the classic
Similar to the COCCHI PANETTONE AL VERMOUTH, the geniuses at both Albertengo (the baker) and Cocchi (the winemaker) have created an Easter Colomba made with COCCHI BRACHETTO d’ ACQUI. Much like the very popular Panettone al Vermouth Cocchi, the Colomba is the Easter version of this marriage. The wine is used to macerate the fruit in the cake and then added to the dough.
BRACHETTO d’ACQUI is an “amabile” red wine made from grapes of the same variety. This is a very old variety in Piemonte, almost lost because it fell out of style. It is grown only a limited area in Piemonte in the area of ACQUI TERME and most always made as a frothy light red wine with the most fragrant of rose-like scents and light sweetness. Brachetto now is one of, if not the most expensive grape variety grown in Italy. The fresh fruit sells for more money than nebbiolo grapes for making Barolo. The grapes are bought by the kilo.
Brachetto is a variety that was very much sought after during the 18th and early 19th centuries, and with the rise of other varieties, and changing wine styles, it was relegated to a minor role in the area of the Monferrato and Alessandria. Acqui Terme is a very old “spa” town with famous water and its Brachetto. Brachetto is now back in vogue and rightly so. Normally, vinified like a moscato, it needs to be left fragrantly sweet and with a gentle mousse in the mouth. Its distinct rose-like scent makes it a splendid accompaniment to dessert or as a morning or afternoon bottle of wine that is surprisingly delicious and “more-ish.” It sings “Springtime” full force!
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
PETER DIPOLI VOGLAR AND IUGUM
Here are two wines from a friend and grower in the Alto Adige, the German speaking part of Italy. The Alto Adige and Trentino form a unit in the north-east central part of the Italian peninsula between Lombardy and the Veneto. This is the part of Italy that before WWI, was part of Austria. Renown for its white wines, the Alto Adige made Pinot Grigio famous in Italy and the world. It also has pockets where other varieties grow exceptionally well.
My friend, Peter Dipoli, both an apple grower and vineyardist (and importer) has made his own wines for more than a quarter of a century. It should be known that Peter’s company, Fine Wines, was the first in the Alto Adige to import California wines to the Alto Adige and then to friends in Austria and Germany. This was the result of several trips here, made in winter when Peter came to search for California wines that he liked and wanted to bring back to his private and restaurant customers, both Italian and German speaking.
VOGLAR was his first wine production in 1990. A Sauvignon Blanc made to be a unique style, fermented and aged in acacia wood foudres, this is Sauvignon Blanc as Peter conceives it. It is not the sharp, highly scented style as in New Zealand nor the smokey style as in Sancerre. Definitely not the California style, but something that uses all of the permutations of the variety to make a wine that ages well and is definitely Sauvignon. Actually it is an amalgam of recognized flavors this variety is capable of. A novel take on the variety is that it grows at high altitude, giving both flavor and acid, which allows the wine to age very well. It is never sold as a young wine. It is given both wood age and then the all important bottle age of at least a year before release to round out the wine’s flavor and to give it its special character. This is a “sui generis” Sauvignon Blanc that truly merits your attention!
IUGUM (pronounced “you-gum”) is a red blend of the two Bordeaux varieties Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. These are “yoked” together, (iugum means yoke) so that they each play a part in the wine’s “whole.” The label shows a pair of oxen yoked together. This is also not your normal Merlot/Cab blend. The vineyard is planted to 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet. The wines are vinified separately and then blended, further aged in wood, and then aged for another definite period in bottle before release, so that when you taste the wine, it has been given a minimum of 2 years bottle age that makes the wine a very special “Bordeaux” blend, made in Italy. The first vintage was 1995.
Both soil types and concept lend special character to Merlot and Cabernet in the altitude and climate of the hills that make up the Alto Adige area of Magrè. With perpetual snow at the mountain tops, the Adige River at the bottom, this area can ripen Merlot and Cabernet extremely well, if at very different times. Iugum is not a red wine for the faint of heart. However, it does amply repay all the efforts put into growing, making, and aging it.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection.
SCHIAVA, THE SPRINGTIME AND WARM WEATHER RED WINE
There are few red grape varieties that make a wine that is so quaffable and delicious as SCHIAVA a variety tried in California in the 1890s and never looked at again. It has another name, VERNATSCH, which leads researchers in these matters to opine that it comes from the east, outside of Italy, since schiava means “slave.”
The vernatsch part may mean that it comes from “vernacular” meaning that it was a local variety. Another meaning is that it was a variety that needed a support, a “slave” like a pole to hold it up. It is not just one variety, but a family. (Should you want the real story, please see pp 970-975 in Wine Grapes, by Robinson, Vouillamoz, Hardin.)
However, this is a very versatile variety that is extremely satisfying, especially in warmer weather, since it doesn’t mind being chilled in order to be appreciated when it is warm and you really want a red wine.
The best of this variety is Grauervernatsch or Schiava Grigia. The vineyard site is SONNTALER. The variety is now getting to be rare in the Alto Adige area which made it famous. We still have a small amount of the 2017 Schiava Grigia from the exceptional producer in Cortaccia, the cooperative cellar of Kurtatsch.
Distinctively red in color, scented with berries and loamy soil, flavory and fruity, yet not excessively so, this is a red wine that pleases and refreshes at the same time. Tannin is there, just not so noticeable and makes the wine more-ishly drinkable. This is the last production from the cellar since the vineyard is now gone.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
LOCK CHA BEERS: BREWED IN HONG KONG WITH LOCK CHA TEA
In January of 2020, our tea merchant from Hong Kong, Wing-chi IP from Lock Cha Tea Company, came to California for the Global Tea Symposium at UC Davis and brought me a sample of his latest project which was Lock Cha BEER, a PALE ALE, brewed with an infusion of PHOENIX OOLONG tea, or in Chinese Dan Cong, the production of which I had visited in 2019. As a pale ale it is fragrant with the scent of light malt and Phoenix Oolong. It is a new and fresh brew of Hong Kong–a perfect marriage between tea and beer, the two most popular drinks of the world. The match is remarkably tasty with the aromatic flavor and scent of the Phoenix Oolong which lends an appropriate harmonious scent and flavor to this pale ale. Alcohol is 5%.IBU 17
The fullest bodied, tea influenced beer is the PU-ER ENGLISH STYLE STRONG ALE at 6.3% alcohol. Pu-er is the other name for the typical Cantonese tea also called BOLEI, which imparts a distinct mellow character and a bittersweet aftertaste to the earthy notes of the English hops used and the toffee-like, complex malt structure. This is more of a food beer–compared to the sessionable pale ale. IBU 43
JASMINE GREEN TEA WHEAT BEER is made in the “Hoegaarden style” with a high proportion of wheat in the brewing. Summer jasmine scented green tea substitutes for the flavorings in the “Wit” formula. The wheat gives a silky texture and the tea a refreshing, floral component. Delicious in warm weather. 4.5% IBU 10
Curiously, these beers are not at all out of character from the Chinese point of view. Some of the earliest “wine” found in China has been beer type products flavored with fruits, aromatic leaves and yes, sometimes tea. LOCK CHA is merely resurrecting some of China’s potable history. Shipped refrigerated, please store refrigerated.
LOCK CHA TEA BEER Phoenix Oolong Pale Ale $4.99 330ml can +CRV (#5227) $19.00– 4 pack +CRV (#5227C) Pu-er English Style Strong Ale $5.29 330ml can +CRV (#5228) $21.00– 4 pack +CRV (#5228C) Jasmine Green Tea Wheat Beer $4.99 330ml can +CRV (#5229) $19.00– 4 pack +CRV (#5229C)
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
MASTROCESARE PIEMONTESE GRISSINI (Breadsticks to us.)
GRISSINI, or in Piemontese dialect, “grìssín” or what Napoleon called “ Les petits bâtonnes de Turin” are probably THE elemental item on the Piemontese table. You get them wrapped in a napkin everywhere in the Region when you sit down at table. They can be very thin or finger thick. The important thing is that they be well baked and crispy. MASTROCESARE GRISSINI are from a bakery tied to the Piemonte Eccelenza Artigiana group which accepts producers with only an exceptional artisanal quality product reputation.
This typical artisanal grissino (the singular) maker is a bakery in Piemonte called MASTROCESARE. This bakery founded in the early 1900s in Borgomanero, in the province of Novara, now supplies us with its grissini. Grissini are indispensable for just nibbling at table and necessary to accompany cold meats, wrap prosciutto around, accompany cheese as an antipasto, with salads, and I enjoy them for dipping into Greek taramasalta. There are two which I particularly enjoy and in order: the plain one, called RUSTIC, and then the SESAME seeded one. But the RUSTIC is possibly the best I have tasted in this country. Both come in 7.05 oz bags and will keep over some time and you should not buy just one bag! They are enticingly delicious and one is always regretting not having more when a bag is opened and finished.
I wrote about this rice in our Fall 2020 newsletter and it sold out. A new shipment has just arrived, and it is ready to supply all those customers who have been clamoring for it since last Fall. Not only has the Covid pandemic made life difficult, it has made international shipping a nightmare. But we have finally received a new shipment of KHAZANA SMOKED BASMATI. We have also bought the KHAZANA ULTRA BASMATI, which is just natural rice and which is one of the longest elongating Basmati on the market. Since 2016 Basmati has a G.I., or Geographical Indication. The word “Basmati” is from a Sanskrit word, through Hindi, meaning “Queen of Fragrance.”
KHAZANA SMOKED BASMATI elongates, but does not widen. It is astoundingly pleasant in the mouth when cooked-fluffy and savory, with an impressive texture due to its elongation. Some grains elongate to 3/4 of an inch or more.
The KHAZANA ULTRA, which is not smoked, but is a selection of Basmati, has the distinct scented quality of the rice which is a compound known as 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline, but elongates even further than the smoked version, about 5/8ths of an inch.
The easiest method of preparing both of these Basmati rices is to measure the amount you want to use, washing in a strainer until the water runs clear, and then soaking with cold water for about an hour. Drain the rice from its soaking water and put into the cooking pot. Add enough clean water to come to about the level of your index finger’s first joint. Add some salt and a pat of butter. Bring to a boil and let cook until tiny craters form on the surface of the rice. Turn heat off and place the pot lid, covered with a clean cloth, to absorb the steam. Let rest for about fifteen minutes. Do not uncover! Then fluff with a fork and serve.
QUINTA da FONTE SOUTO Branco 2017 or 2018: The Symington Family’s newest winery in Portugal. This winery is in the highest section of the vast middle part of Portugal, its ALENTEJO. The Quinta is in the Alto Alentejo, roughly much like California’s Sierra Foothills: warm during the day and cool at night. Quinta da Fonte Souto (the chestnut grove spring farm) produces both red and white wines, but it is the white wine that interests me particularly. Why? Because it is made with two Portuguese white grape varieties which we have in California, and this wine could be a model for a new California production. It is a blend of ARINTO 75% and VERDELHO 25%, both varieties now grown in California. Arinto, grown in Amador County, is the variety producing BUCELAS, known as Lisbon “Hock,” in London in the 19th century due to its high acidity. VERDELHO is grown in the Clarksburg, Lodi, and Sierra Foothills areas. With the Fonte Souto white, you can taste what the blend can produce. It has a very distinct style without any wood overlay and is something eminently doable in California. Why would we do it? Just look at what France taught us about Chardonnay and where it got us!
The Symingtons, famous for their Port properties, bought this estate in the spring of 2017. So their first vintage was 2017. We have a bit of this vintage and the next release, 2018. This is not a white wine that gets to market right away since it needs some age to develop flavor and character. I am very impressed with this blend and we will offer the 2018 vintage (5 bottles) and the 2017 (1 bottle) just so our customers can see the development trajectory. Fonte Souto Branco right now shows lovely wine making and a sensitive touch. It reminds me very much of some Hunter Valley Semillons or middle range white burgundy in flavor and character, with freshness, complexity, elegance, and the promise of great longevity. Enough said!
I think our customers should try Fonte Souto Branco, just to see the possibilities of an emerging new wine world from what was never a highly considered viticultural area. It just takes someone to lead the way.
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
CORTI BROTHERS FIVE CITRUS MARMALADE: Marmellata ai Cinque Agrumi
THE GOOD STUFF with Janet McDonald has just finished making the Five Citrus Marmalade from fruit from my backyard. There is less than last year due to Mother Nature, so I would like to limit sales to 6 jars per customer to allow it to go to more fans of this marmalade. This year the blend is slightly different, being: Citron, Blood Orange, Bergamot, Meyer Lemon, and Chinotto. Slightly milder in flavor than last year, it will age very well and shows more the delicate flavor of citron. The bergamot is also a little lower in flavor and aroma than last year.
AWAITING RIESLING AND GOOD WEATHER: RIESLING IN MAGNUMS
“Riesling in magnums, you say.” Well, yes, why not. If probably the best size for maturing red wines is a magnum bottle, why not for riesling. I believe the first time I saw a riesling magnum was about ten years ago. Curiously, German winemakers never before had bottled magnums of their white wine. Half bottles, yes, but not 1.5 liter sizes. It would be an interesting question to pose to German producers. Now, even trockenbeerenauslese is bottled in magnums!
But since German riesling ages so beautifully, an aged magnum is probably what a party of four or definitely of six, needs to satisfy. Rather than two bottles, a magnum provides a finely matured wine that should delight anyone. Corti Brothers has a good selection of maturing German rieslings in magnums which both entice and satisfy that desire to enjoy riesling when the weather warms up. I can’t imagine a lunch or dinner with spring asparagus without one of these bottles. Plus a magnum shows that you really want your guests to try a wine at its optimum. As I write this, it seems that there are few comforts to be had at this time. Things will change. And is it not a comfortable thought to be able to sit at table with a delicious double bottle of mature riesling.
Corti Brothers can offer these magnum bottlings in the following wines:
Note:The un-linked items in the newsletter are not available for purchase on our website. If you are interested in any of those items, please phone or email us your request. 916-736-3800 or 800-509-Food cortibros@sbcglobal.net
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