Spring 2025
COLOMBA FOR SPRINGTIME
Just as panettone means Christmas for Italians, the COLOMBA means Easter. This is a baked cake, in a rather odd shape–that of a flying dove. It is made with a mother sponge, raised dough to which butter, eggs, and candied citrus fruit is added, and the top decorated with either whole Sicilian almonds or a hazelnut cream made with Piemonte hazelnuts. Beside being the festive cake for Easter, it has myriad uses after as a base for fresh fruit desserts, where the Colomba acts as the base for almost every kind of sliced and sugared fruit teamed with whipped cream or whipped cream blended with Mascarpone cheese, a bit of sugar and some vanilla. Or, used as a base for “bread” pudding.
From LOISON: COLOMBA
SENZA CANDITI: without candied fruit, just almonds and sugar topping, wrapped, kilo, $32.99 (#7201)
LIMONE: with a lemon cream filling, wrapped, kilo, $36.99 (#7202)
ALLO ZABAIONE: with zabaione (sabayon) cream filling, wrapped, kilo, $37.99 (#7203)
PESCA e NOCCIOLE: with candied peach bits and hazelnut topping, boxed, kilo, $39.79 (#7204)
MANDARINO DI CIACULLI: with Palermo’s mandarino peel, boxed, kilo, $35.99 (#7205)
AL CAMOMILLA e LIMONE: Roman chamomile flower, Sorrento lemon peel, boxed, kilo, $35.99 (#7206)
A.D. 1552: with Sicilian orange peel, almonds, boxed, 750g boxed $34.99 (#7207)
REGAL CIOCCOLATO: Origin chocolate, chocolate cream and glaze, boxed, kilo, $38.99 (#7208)
CLASSICA MAGNUM: cellophane wrapped, ribbon,
5 Kilo $143.99 (#7210)
LOISON VENEZIANA Similar to Colomba, but the specialty dessert of Venice
AL MANDARINO DI CIACULLI: with Palermo’s mandarino, almond glaze, boxed, 600g $29.99 (#7211)
AL PISTACCHIO DI BRONTE: with Bronte pistachio cream filling and glaze, boxed, 600g $35.99 (#7212)
ALL’ ALPIANE: with raisins plumped with Vignalta’s passito Alpiane, wrapped, kilo $32.99 (#7213)
FOCACCIA MANDORLATA: no candied fruit, with almond topping, wrapped, ribbon 750g $22.99 (#7214)
Even Italians see the virtue of having panettone throughout the year! (Just to see if there is a demand.)
PANETTONE AL LIMONE with lemon cream, boxed, 600g $19.99 (#7215)
LOISON PANFRUTTO FILONE
We have again this year that specialty from Loison bakery that was created in the 1930s by Dario Loison’s grandfather: it is a FILONE, an elongated, baguette shaped loaf with candied fruit and raisins that is similar to, but not the same dough, as panettone. It is a tender, leavened cake with candied fruit and raisins glazed with a hazelnut glaze. It can be sliced and enjoyed or sliced and toasted. Either way, it is delicious and shows what deliciousness can come from thinking outside of the box. Five versions, boxed, 500g. All are $17.99 each.
FRUTTA (Raisins, Sicilian orange peel, almond glaze. (#7216)
LIMONE (Amalfi lemon peel, raisins and IGP Piemonte hazelnut glaze. (#7217)
CIACULLI MANDARINO (Ciaculli mandarino and raisins, IGP hazelnut glaze. (#7218)
ARANCIA CIOCCOLATO (Dark chocolate drops and candied Sicilian orange peel. (#7219)
50 HERTZ TINGLY SICHUAN PEPPER PEANUTS
These peanuts are just in time for spring/summer entertaining. In fact, you may wonder why they were not thought of before. Most people interested in food and its tastes, have heard about or experienced SICHUAN PEPPER, also spelled Szechwan. It is not a pepper like black or white pepper and it is not a capsicum (chile pepper) but the seed hull of a tree, the Prickly Ash tree, (Zanthoxylum armatum and Z.bungeanum) native to southern China and related to Citrus in the Rutaceae family.
It does not have a “hot” taste, but produces a tingling sensation on the tongue and lips which is its hallmark. So not hot, but tingly, some like to say numbing. The sensation is unique. It has also been classified by Cognitive Neuroscience at University College, London, as having a tinglying frequency of 50 Hertz. This gives rise to the brand name of these peanuts. The molecule hydroxy-alpha-sanshool, an aromatic molecule, is what produces the effect on nerve receptors where skin is very thin: around the mouth and lips.
A young Chinese, YAO ZHAO, founded the company of 50 HERTZ having learned the number of hertz the sensation produces. A native of Chongqing in South China, this became an intriguing business proposition and thus we have 50 Hertz Tingly Peanuts. The peanuts themselves come from Kaifeng in Henan province in eastern China. Kaifeng is famous in history as one of the ancient capitals of China. Peanuts grown there are renown for being big, plump and crunchy. The peanuts are fried with both green and red Sichuan pepper.
These are two kinds of pepper, not different colors of the same. The green (Zanthoxylum armatum) is aromatic and citrusy while the red (Z.bungeanum) is earthy and full-bodied, which is the more usual of the two types. Both produce the tingly sensation but not heat.
The 50 Hertz Tingly Peanuts are definitely striking in flavor. The tingly sensation is amazing and somewhat addictive. They will definitely spark up your aperitifs. You will think of peanuts in a completely different way.
50 HERTZ TINGLY SICHUAN PEPPER PEANUTS 5.5oz tin $7.99 (#7220) $43.00 case/6 (#7220C)
UCHIBORI VINEGARS: SPLENDID VINEGARS FROM JAPAN
On my last trip to Japan to attend FoodEx in Tokyo, I found a really superb producer of vinegar made in Gifu Prefecture in the mountains in the middle of Japan. This producer is UCHIBORI, who has been making vinegars since 1877. One normally doesn’t think much about vinegar, it is just there. Such was the state of things until the arrival of Traditional Aceto Balsamico, which radically changed consumers’ view of vinegar. I hope that UCHIBORI will do the same for somewhat more traditional vinegars.
In order to make fine vinegar, which is not a by-product or lesser product, but is a product which needs a finely made base in order to make fine vinegar. Uchibori does just that. While producing vinegars from rice mainly, Uchibori makes the substrate which they convert to vinegar. In most vinegar production, a substrate is purchased from various and different producers and converted to vinegar. Uchibori makes its sake substrate and then converts this same sake to vinegar. The case in point is its DAIGINJO VINEGAR. At Daiginjo level, rice is milled to 50% or less of its original size. It is produced mainly in the winter during cold weather.
A sake lover knows the word DAIGINJO in sake as meaning the highest quality level of sake produced. Uchibori makes its own daiginjo sake just to convert it to vinegar. All Japanese vinegar is made from some part of koji fermented rice, produced as sake and then converted to vinegar. Uchibori DAIGINJO vinegar is the only one I know of, where the highest quality sake is produced just to make vinegar.
Tasting it at the Uchibori stand at FoodEx in Tokyo, I was amazed at its clean, fragrant and tasty character, putting it very much out of the normal realm of Japanese white vinegar. It was an astonishing flavor and delicious. Mellow, soft, with rich rice sweetness, but not “sweet” tasting, Daiginjo vinegar is splendid white vinegar for use with wine. Normally wine and vinegar are not served in tandem
Another tasting led me to the Uchibori Black vinegar, RINGOYAMA KUROSU. (It really is not “black”, more like a very dark chocolate brown color), with again, an astonishingly delicious flavor profile. Do not let the name bother you. The vinegar takes its name from Mt. Rinko in Gifu prefecture. It is not particularly thick, but very flavorful, with a terrific umami background flavor that is both mellow and balanced. Production of this vinegar uses twice as much brown rice than required by the official definition of Black Vinegar. I am really enjoying as an aperitif a small amount of this vinegar in a glass, topped up with San Pellegrino water. (The recipe: one part vinegar and four parts water.) Simply astonishingly delicious! I have also started using Uchibori Black vinegar in braises and sautées to point up flavors. It works wonderfully and recently has been promoted by several starred French chefs specifically to point up flavor in dishes. There is nothing similar in Western cooking.
Both the Uchibori Daiginjo and Uchibori Black Vinegar merit your attention. They probably will change your mind about vinegar. Both are perfect. Spring and summer are coming. Salads need vinegar!
UCHIBORI DAIGINJO VINEGAR 360ml bottle $9.99 (#7221) $53.00 case/6 (#7221C)
UCHIBORI RINGOYAMA KUROSU 360ml bottle $7.99 (#7222) $43.00 case/6 (#7222C)
SPINOSI PASTA ALL’UOVO (Egg pasta to us)
SPINOSI brand of egg based pasta is possibly the best made in Italy. According to a wine merchant friend from Milano, it is “better than homemade.” In Italy a minimum of eggs in making egg pasta is 4 whole eggs per kilo of flour. The Spinosi egg pastas are made with 10 eggs per kilo of flour. The eggs are cracked by hand one by one; no water is added to the mix; and then with high quality Italian durum semolina flour, the mix is slowly kneaded and cut with bronze dies. The then cut pasta is slowly dried and packaged. Spinosi Pasta has been made since 1933 in Campofilone, a small city in Italy’s eastern seaboard region of the MARCHE, where egg pasta making is a tradition which dates back to the 1400s. This pasta was called “maccheroni fini fini.” Its golden yellow color is given by the intense, almost red colored egg yolks produced by chickens raised cage free and fed a diet with safflower seeds and other high chlorophyl feed that produces deep colored egg yolks.
Such a high amount of egg content also gives Spinosi pasta a real toothsome structure so that you can taste the almost firm texture of egg based pasta dough when cooked. This toothsome quality is one of its remarkable characteristics. The Spinosi boxes say on them that the producer is “The artisan of pasta as if home made.”
All the long cuts of pasta are in 8.8oz boxes layered on two sheets of white paper. This is a very good measure since only one sheet of pasta is needed for up to four persons as a first course or 2 or 3 diners as a main course.
Corti Brothers stocks the following cuts of SPINOSI PASTA in 250g boxes;
Long Cuts:
Tagliolini 2-3 mm wide $9.99 (#7223)
Tagliolini nero di seppia (black pasta with squid ink $11.99 (#7224);
Fettucine 6.4 mm wide $9.99 (#7225);
Fettucine with spinach (green colored) $11.99 (#7226);
Pappardelle 3/4 to inch wide $9.99 (#7227);
Spinobelli square cut like tagliolini $11.99 (#7228);
Short Cuts:
Strozzapretti a curled shape and short $9.99 (#7230)
Bentagliati, a square cut pasta to differ from Maltagliati shape $10.99 (#7232)
VIGNALTA SALE ALLE ERBE (Herbed salt to us)
VIGNALTA is the name of a winery in the hills close to Padova in Italy’s Veneto Region. It is in the area called the Colli Euganei, a thermal spring area, where the vineyards are on volcanic soils from now extinct volcanos. On the vineyards are wild growing herbs, rosemary, marjoram, thyme, which are harvested then dried with Sicilian sea salt and packaged. This herbed salt is probably one of the most delicious salts on the market and indispensable in the kitchen for seasoning meat of any kind. This is what I use for my roasts, turkey, and chicken when the mood strikes. For lamb or pork chops and steaks of every type, it is obligatory. In short, every well run kitchen should not be without it. It also makes a wonderful hostess gift that will be well remembered for your having brought it. Don’t be caught without Vignalta salt. With grilling season upon us, it is obligatory!
VIGNALTA SALE ALLE ERBE 300g jar $10.99 each (#7233) $118.00 case of 12 (#7233C)
NEW OILS FROM THE OLIVE TRUCK, from California
Olive Oil seems to have become the new wine business. A lot of people are becoming olive growers and having oil made, either directly or by third parties. This is interesting to see, since in the early 90s, the only substantial oil production in California was that of the Sciabica family in Modesto. They have been at it since 1932.
I am the chairman of the Los Angeles International extra virgin oil competition held the first week of February at the L.A. County Fair at Pomona. This is our 26th year as the first, and I like to think, most important tasting in the U.S. This year, 2025, we tasted almost 500 oils submitted from California and around the world. The breakdown of entries was 177 from the US; 68 Italy; 49 each, Spain and Greece; 45 Turkey; 39 Portugal; and 13 Chile and Argentina. Even Japan with 2 entries. Eighteen well qualified Italian, Spanish, Greek, Israeli, Chilean and Californian tasters rendered judgement on these oils.
The Olive Truck, a traveling mill, the Mori-Tem mill, placed in a 40 foot container on the bed of a truck, has once again shown that the most up-to-date system will generally make the best oil. No more stone crushers and hydraulic presses! Using “under vacuum”systems preserves freshness and allows oils to keep better and longer.
The Olive Truck is owned by Samir Bayraktar, from Turkey, who first used this method of going to the groves to make oil in Turkey, and several years ago brought the same method to California. His production has been making winning oils ever since. What I have selected from his production for 2025 are the following: Prices are $26.99 for 500ml bottles. Bergamotto is $17.99 for 250ml. (Production 100 liters.)
PICUAL from Newcastle, California. (#7234)
A lovely example of variety with elegant fruitiness and balanced bitterness; long flavor.
TUSCAN BLEND: Sonoma County, harvest end of October. From Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino. (#7235)
Fine flavor: grassy, artichoke, balanced bitterness. Could be mistaken for Italian.
CORATINA: Granite Bay, California, harvested end of October; Best of Show in class at L.A. (#7236)
Enough said!
BERGAMOTTO: Milled with fresh bergamot fruit from Newcastle; Leccino from Woodland, Ca. (#7237)
Bergamot is a scented citrus which blends with the softness of November harvested Leccino. Rare.
RIGA LUX GOLDEN HERRING IN OIL
Tawny, gold colored, tail and headless, these fish are part of the herring family, “bluefish” that are very good for you. Normally called “sprats,” they are a delicacy from Latvia, generally from the Riga area. In Russian cuisine they are called “kilki.” The Riga Lux Golden Herring are unusual since they are mostly females with their roe. A bonus!
Packed in vegetable oil, the fish are packed in jars so that you can see what they look like and make a delicious appetizer or first course with thinly sliced, toasted french bread, and a dab of good sour cream or crème fraîche.
Vodka, of course, is always welcome as an accompaniment as is ice cold, flavory gin, like either young or aged Jenever or Aquavit, especially the Norwegian Linie.
Mild in flavor, smokey and with their slightly crunchy roe in the background, these Riga Golden Herring are wonderful. Lovers of these preparations should not miss getting acquainted with them. Really yummy!
RIGA LUX GOLDEN HERRING 300g jar $5.99 (#7238) Case of 6 $32.00 (#7238C)
CALIFORNIA CLASSIC SPANISH STYLE SEASONING
When is the last time you have thought about making Tamale Pie? Do you even know what Tamale Pie is? Well, Tamale pie is an American pot-luck style casserole dish. It was most likely invented by someone who had a taste of a real tamale and tried to recreate it in a casserole. Tamale pie is not remotely Mexican and only somewhat resembles the flavor of real tamales. But it does taste great, is budget friendly, and easily feeds a lot of people!
Tamale pie is thought to have originated in Texas sometime in the 1900s and became popular in high school cafeterias to feed students. Variations may include beef, pork, chicken, beans, and cheese with vegetables, cornbread, and/or creamed corn. It became an especially popular dish during times when there was a shortage like during the World War II era.
This is Corti Brothers remake of a now long lost seasoning that used to be called “L&D Spanish Seasoning.” It is a culinary hold over, since it literally has nothing to do with Europe’s Spain, but more the euphemism used decades ago to mean “Mexican” cuisine. This seasoning was a staple in California for making dishes like Tamale Pie.
There have been numerous queries to us at Corti Brothers from customers who bought and were fond of the L&D Seasoning. So, with the demand, we found an unopened bottle of seasoning and gave it to a spice bottler and asked if it could be duplicated. We tried, and have come close, very close, to the original.
But do not try and use it in making your “tortilla española!” It is meant to give you a Mexican touch to almost everything imaginable. The fans of the old L&D Seasoning should be consoled; new fans should be delighted with this new flavoring. It contains no salt, sugar, nor preservatives. It comes in 1.50 oz bottles for freshness, with a flip top lid for easy sprinkling. Printable recipes, modernized from some originals are available. Click here for a printable copy
CALIFORNIA CLASSIC SPANISH STYLE SEASONING 1.5oz jar $4.99 (##7239) Case/12 $53.00 (#7239C)
Something Special and Unusual: ROSE PETAL PRESERVE
Corti Brothers has just come across a special and unusual preserve made from Rose Petals. The idea of trying to capture the fine scent of aromatic roses has been around for a long time. Roses are fairly easy to grow and the highly scented rose, the Damascena, tells us something about its origin: Damascus.
We have just tasted a lovely example of Rose Petal Preserve made with three ingredients: rose petals, sugar and citric acid. Water, of course, to create the syrup. It is NOYAN ROSE PETAL preserve, from Armenia. The name Noyan is interesting since it is a word meaning “Lord” or Prince, essentially a central Asian word.
It has a darkish pink color, with the obvious now pale rose petals in a medium thick syrup that is both tasty and scented. This rose preserve is not forcefully rose scented--balanced, yet not cloying, it would have some unusual uses, besides being used as a “spoon fruit.” Spoon fruits are an east of the Mediterranean sweet, fruit in syrup enjoyed for its own sake. They are often used as a welcome offering to guests upon arrival in a home. Our Noyan Rose petal preserve would be very much at home as the sweetener in a dark tea, rather than sugar; it would be delicious with some fresh cheeses, Stracciatella, burrata, fresh chevre, Mascarpone and others. You could use it as a breakfast treat. A spoonful in a glass with sparkling water will make a tasty and unusual “soft” drink.
NOYAN ROSE PETAL PRESERVE 16oz jar $6.99 (#7240) Limited supply!
NEW–SPINOSI BISCOTTI WITH PISTACHIO (Spiritosini con pistacchi)
Almost everyone knows that the word “biscotti” means “cookies” in English. Or at least, I hope so! I would like to introduce to you the very newest product of Spinosi, Italy’s famed pasta maker--his version of biscotti made with pistachios.
Actually, the word means “twice cooked” from which we get “biscuit.” The twice cooked part is from the fact that the dough mass is mixed, then baked until it is fairly solid, then removed from the oven, sliced into diagonal slices, and then re-baked to finish cooking. Hence, twice cooked.
These Spinosi biscotti have the dough mass mixed with raw pistachios, then baked, producing a lovely, friable consistency and a splendid pistachio taste. One is not enough and yes, you can dip them into your glass of wine, preferable a Vin Santo or Passito type. If push comes to shove, a finishing glass of red wine left from your dinner, will adequately do the job.
SPINOSI BISCOTTI WITH PISTACHIO (Spiritosini) 250g box $11.99 (#7241)
ETTO PASTA, MADE IN CALIFORNIA
This is a new pasta manufacturer based in California’s Paso Robes area. It is a brand new company which makes an orthodox durum wheat pasta using only the two canonical ingredients: western U.S. durum semolina and water; pressed through bronze dies for surface texture, and with low temperature slow drying, to preserve flavor.
The name of the company is ETTO, which is a weight--100grams, or about 1/4 of a pound, corresponding to what is generally thought to be the correct portion size for pasta as a “primo” or first course of a meal. The cuts currently being produced by Etto Pastificio are all short ones. Etto pasta is organic and very fine flavored, with a lovely, unmistakable semolina taste. Remember pasta shouldn’t be drowned in sauce, because it is enjoyed for its own taste. It’s pasta with sauce; not sauce with pasta.
ETTO PASTA, Durum semolina base, made in California, 1lb box $7.99
TROMBE trumpets, also known as gigli or lilies (#7242)
SEDANI, celery, a ribbed, tube shape (#7243)
REGINETTE a wavy edged, inch and a half long, flat shape (#7245)
For a printable version of our Newsletter, click the link below.
TERMS OF SALE: This list supersedes all others. All taxable items, such as wine, beer, spirits, books will be taxed at the rate of 8.75%. All California State required bottles and cans will incur the California Redemption Value (CRV) charge for recycling, per bottle, at 05¢ for under 24 oz and 10¢ for 24 oz and over. This is for all sales since we sell in California. Foodstuffs are not taxable. Shipping will be charged at prevailing rates. PLEASE NOTE: In extreme weather, either hot or cold, please give us a shipping address where your order may be properly received and stored. Corti Brothers cannot be responsible for items left without protection. Please order early for best selection.
